morgans

Also, if you air lines are overhead, where ever there is a drop, don't turn
out for the disconnect with an elbow. Put in a tee, and drop a 12 inch
nipple with a drain****. The water that comes down the line, will gather in
the nipple. I would put a filter at each connection.
--
Jim in NC

david d cowell

Yes, I did look at the listing. Let me restate.......Then why install a
lubricator if you don't need it? Just buy a GOOD filter/water trap and a
GOOD regulator.

--
David D Cowell

rich s.

And send the BAD ones to rehab to make them GOOD!

This is getting us nowhere, DD. Whether the recommended items will do the
job is Ed's task to determine - as is whether they are an economical
solution for his particular situation. I am sure that your needs, my needs
and Ed's needs are all different. He was simply looking for recommendations,
which is what I supplied. If you would like to start a new thread as to what
you may need or deem necessary, be my guest.

Rich "'Everybody to their own taste', said Mrs. Murphy as she kissed the
cow." S

larry smith

I like my filter which uses a roll of toilet tissue. I'll go look at the
name on it. <intermission>

Okay, it's an M-30 from Motor Guard Corporation, Manteca, CA. Pricey but
effective, particularly when painting. Of course you know to cool your air
(thus condensing the water in it) by having a couple of risers in each line
with collectors and valves at the bottom of the loops to drain off water.

I notice they are freeze-drying the compressed air at the Ford Dealer before
it reaches the paint gun. If you're running an air-tool, oil it at the
inlet.

Use a 2-stage compressor too. It runs cooler. Hot air is not good,
especially when compressed because it's usually full of moisture. And
remember Boyle's law of temperature, pressure, and volume of a gas. Well,
YOU would, Ed.

I tried several of the so called water filters/driers without much
success. The problem is the hoses were cooler than the air tank and
the water would condense in the hose.
I decided I needed to cool and condense the water out of the hot air
that comes out of the compressor BEFORE it goes into the tank.
I gutted an old 3 ton air conditioner and left only the fan and the
condenser coil. I connected this between the compressor and the tank
with a self draining water trap at the output of the condenser. The
fan runs only when the compressor is running. It works VERY well. I
can run the compressor for hours and get ZERO water out of the air
lines now. This also removes most of the compressor's oil mist from
the air.
John

del rawlins

I have a set of videos on automotive restoraton, and in one of them it
shows a homemade air drier which consists of shop air plumbed into a
coil of copper tubing, which is then placed in a bucket of ice water
followed by a tee fitting with a drain. The cold causes water vapor to
condense to liquid, which can be drained periodically. It seemed to be
a cheap and effective setup for occasional painting or whenever dry air
is required.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

harrybrns

If you are setting up a paint rig, then the most cost effective working
strategy is going to be a combination filter/regulator unit (called a
"piggyback" in the industry) followed by AT LEAST a coalescing filter unit, in
series. Minimum 5 micron filtration on the piggyback, and 0.01 micron on the
coalescer. That will take care of the oil and dirt. For water, there are a
few good inline desicant-type units that will work with low CFM's. A
refer-dryer is much better, but most start in the $1000 range.

If you're only going to use air tools, then the piggyback unit alone would be
sufficient. I would only add a lube unit if the air line its attached to is
dedicated to tools that require (the same) oil.

The best units on the market are made by Wilkerson, Norgren, and SMC. These
are REAL units that industrial machines use. BUT in your CFM range, they
shouldn't cost any more than the junk that Harbor Freight sells ($20-$50) If
you can't find an industrial pneumatics supplier in your area, try contacting
SEPA (South East Pneumatic Automation) in Atlanta. The owner is a retired
Lockheed engineer.

http://www.sepaautomation.com

That should do it.
Harry
former pneumatic industrial sales specialist