steve simpson

As a very early adopter of the GV-1, I can state categorically . . from experience . . . that
the only real question to ask about a governor is at what point in your learning curve you
should buy one.

The answer is simple: yesterday.


When you use the governor you bought yesterday, there is no need for 'accuracy' in a pitch
curve. Three points are plenty.

Set the mid point at zero pitch. During a full climb out, if the engine slows, you have too much
positive pitch, so back some out. Say it turns out you can push 9-1/2 degrees . . then just set
the negative to say -4 or -6 for your hovering and easy forward flight and to 9-1/2 for 3D
stuff.

If you have any positive pitch left over, crank it into your autorotation 'throttle hold' mode .
.. . you never know when it might come in handy.

Do not fly or hover in any mode which will allow the engine to go to idle. Reserve that only for
starting and stopping the engine.

x-guy

Get a good radio like Futaba FF9 or JR 9X, save money for fuel, governor is
good but not necessary. I have been flying hard 3D without using governor
for several years until recently. For the level you are at, learn how to
tune engine, adjust curves and get some more fuel.

"Tim" <void@invalidemail.com> ¼¶¼g©ó¶l¥ó·s»D
:boM6b.2099$qK6.846@news-binary.blueyonder.co.uk...


governor,


facility


better

philip henderson

Are you happy with the TJ mount? That piece of PCB looks susceptible to
vibrations.

Phil.

philip martin

Look at it this way, you fly with an Rx, Gyro and possibly a GV-1 with
dozens of delicate surface mount components, stuck onto a thin bit of PCB.
The TJ has (at most) 6 components, conventional lead mounted, and soldered
through a fairly (in relative terms) thick chunk of PCB. I mount mine on a
bit of double sided sticky foam.

I think that in a full speed crash against a concrete wall the TJ would
survive whilst all the other kit would be damaged, destroyed and buggered)

Phil Martin.

Who has spent half the day soldering some of those poxy microscopic surface
mount components to a PCB by hand, with the aid of a bloody great magnifying
glass!!

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philip henderson

The sensor mount I'm talking about. It's just a bit of PCB and it's bolted
to the damn engine mount.

mrbonk

The sensor on my GV-1 came apart after only a couple of flights......loads
of ppl I spoke to before I flew it said "Wrap the sensor in cotton and soak
it with CA......the sensors all fall apart on those GV-1's". Of course, I
*didn't* do that, and the sensor case fell in half after I landed one
flight. So, after I wrapped it in cotton and soaked it in CA, it's been
perfectly fine........

MrBonk
http://www.mrbonk.com

philip henderson

Before I installed mine I did cotton soaked CA thing and then applied heat
strink to protect it from fuel/oil.

I'm still talking about the actual engine mount though. It's metal on the
GV-1 and a PCB on the TJ. Phil.

beav

Strangely enough Bonko, when I mentioned that I'd experienced at least 2
GV-1 sensors "dropping apart", I heard exactly the opposite. NO-ONE was
having any problems with them ('cept me of course), but since then, people I
know have ALL reported the sensor "holder" is crap. I now take the sensor
unit and slip it inside a short length of carbon tube smeared with
Evo-stick. Not had any fail since I've been doing that either.

The plastic the holder's made from is total rubbish (IMHO of course)

The optical sensor idea is far better.


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
http://www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

philip martin

WHAT! Am I supposed to be ****ing psychiatric (or is it psychic) now, where
does it say SENSOR???

Never mind, I'm just having a bad (ulcer) day)))) or should that be
(((((

Questions - Questions.

Phil Martin.

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mpa

http://mp3software.com.au/heli/psych.wav
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