default user

I have a 1995 Bronco, 5.8L. About this time last year it started having
a problem with the idle, it would get stuck high or seek idle between a
couple of values. It was very intermittent. When it was exhibiting the
problem, it would display frequent Check Engine lights.

It would come and go. I sometimes had success clearing it by shutting
off the engine and restarting, other times not. It was never consistent
enough that I could show it to the shop. They did check the stored
fault codes, it was TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). That makes sense
with what I was seeing.

About late February, it just went away. Everything was fine through the
spring, summer, and fall. Now, it's reappeared. It seems vaguely like
it might be ambient temp related, but it didn't do it during very cold
weather a few weeks ago, and the weather is actually very mild at this
time when it's doing it quite a bit.

As you can imagine, it's a PITA when driving, especially when parking.
I'd like to get it resolved. One approach would be just to have the TPS
replaced. It looks like about a $50 part if bought by the consumer,
probably some shop markup in a repair situation. I don't know what the
normal labor charge for that job would be.

My concern would be replacing that and not resolving it. Are there
other likely causes for this condition and/or fault code? Is there
something I could have the shop look for even if it's not showing the
condition? They really didn't work on it very much last time because
they couldn't reproduce the error and had other things to do. Then it
cleared up semi-permanently (until now) shortly thereafter.


Brian

--
If televison's a babysitter, the Internet is a drunk librarian who
won't shut up.
-- Dorothy Gambrell (http://catandgirl.com)

jeff strickland

I too have a '95 Bronco with the same motor. I had a Check light that would
come and go -- sometimes it would come and go in the same trip without me
doing anything. In any case, I bought a code reader for about $30, which
said that I had problems with an O2 sensor. I replaced the sensor and used
the scan tool to reset the code. No problems since.

If I was in your shoes, I'd unplug the TPS connector and clean it. Well,
first I would buy a code reader and confirm the problem. I have a friend
that has a "00 Explorer that was behaving similarly to your truck, and the
problem could be mimiced repeatedly by disconnecting and reconnecting the
TPS. I recall that the problem was resolved by cleaning the connector.

My scan tool is the ACTRON Model CP9015, and is specifically designed to
pull codes from domestic Ford products.

default user

I don't really work on my vehicles much anymore, it's a time thing.
I'll look into your suggestion, it sounds good.

Brian

--
If televison's a babysitter, the Internet is a drunk librarian who
won't shut up.
-- Dorothy Gambrell (http://catandgirl.com)

lugnut

On 16 Dec 2006 21:30:19 GMT, "Default User"


If you have gotten a TPS fault code it is probably bad since
they are often bad without displaying a code. - IOW, it has
to be pretty far out of range to set a code. The TPS is
simple to replace with no adjustment possible. All you need
is a properly fitting phillips screwdriver. Just pay
attention to the way the blade is oriented when you remove
the old one and make sure the throttl opens fully and freely
after installation. You can reset the code by disconnecting
the negative battery cable for 10 minutes or more. When you
restart the engine, do not touch anything other than the
starter. Allow it to idle 5-10 minutes to relearn it's idle
and drive a few miles normally to complete the process.
There is no way to clean a TPS as it is fully encased. You
$50 price is in line with sealer prices. You should be able
to get a good quality replacement for around $30.

Lugnut

default user

Sounds you think it's almost certainly that and not something else.
That sounds fine, I'll call the shop and get scheduled just to replace
it. It was acting up again today, and I doubt that's good for the other drive train components.

I'm sure it is, but I just really don't work on it anymore at all. It's
not easy for a short guy like me to even reach a lot of the engine
stuff easily, and with the time factor it's better just to let the shop
take care of the actual work.

Thanks for information.

Brian

--
If televison's a babysitter, the Internet is a drunk librarian who
won't shut up.
-- Dorothy Gambrell (http://catandgirl.com)

lugnut

On 17 Dec 2006 03:16:50 GMT, "Default User"


It is one of several sensors in that circuit that are inrer
realted. It is the only mechanical/electrical components
subject to mechanical wear and environmental contamination
which makes it by far the most likely of those components to
fail. A sophisticated tester like the Ford STAR tester can
usually pinpoint it in the hands of a knowledgeable
technician. In the absence of that resource, I would simply
replace it. If you have someone do the work for you, you
should have them clean the throttle body and IAC (idle air
control) at the same time to make sure the idle system is in
good shape. This may eliminate a couple of other idle
gremlins that may show up after a good TPS is installed.
The IAC itself may be bad but, it will not cause a TPS fault code. Lugnut

default user

Ok, thanks.

Brian

--
If televison's a babysitter, the Internet is a drunk librarian who
won't shut up.
-- Dorothy Gambrell (http://catandgirl.com)

defaultuserbr

In case anyone was burning up with curiosity about this (and why
wouldn't you interested in the minutiae of my life?) it turned out to
be a combination of a bad idle air motor and a bad TPS.


Brian

flasherly

idle air control valvue?

http://www.explorer4x4.com/iac.htm

flasherly

idle air control valvue?

http://www.explorer4x4.com/iac.htm