david geesaman

Hi, I have a 95 F-150 4WD (5.8, E4OD, 150k miles) that we use for
towing. It's done well, and I've fixed a few annoyances, but it has some
mechanical items I would like an opinion on. I'm accustomed to doing nearly
all my own work by myself and w/o air tools, but since it won't fit in my
garage, I fear some of it may be unreasonable. At least I don't need to
jack it up to get underneath it.

Here's the laundry list:
* Ticking sound from right bank under throttle, in time with engine RPM.
It's perfectly consistent and around 2 ticks/second when near idle speed. I
wanted to check the EGR tube but stopped short of attempting to disassemble
it when I saw it resembled heavy plumbing. As well, the manifold didn't
show any cracks but it looked very tight and very rusted to attempt to
unbolt it for inspection. I looked into checking the timing, but it seems
there is no timing adjustment on these 95s. Any tips, or suggestions how to
diagnose and repair as a DIY or how bad$$ it might be at a shop?

* Oil collecting around oil pan. It's not enough to generate a puddle, but
has begun marking the parking space. I suspect pinhole corrosion leaks in
the pan, or dripping from the mainseals. If it's any of these problems, it
sounds very messy to repair them on my back in a parking space. Any help
for diagnosing this and determine how urgent this job is.

* ATF collecting around tranny pan. Again, it's just enough to wet the pan.
I was planning to drop the pan to change the fluid and install a basic
Transgo shift kit. But this could become one massive mess even with a 3'x5'
metal catch pan. Is there any way to do this without messing up the parking
space?

* Fuel tank leakage and/or bad check valves. The rear tank just pumps to
the front tank, and when it's full it seems to have a slight leak near the
rear filler neck. Is the filler neck, valves, etc easy to see when I have
the tank dropped? (I can drop the tank myself, but removing the bed sounds
like a 2-3 person job, and obviously less convenient).

Tips, links, advice appreciated.

Dave

putt

Check the spark plugs and the holes. Plug may be broken. I recall a
problem with plugs becoming loose in the holes on some v-8 engines. I
think there was a recall because of this.....

This is in the catagory: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Replacing
the gaskets/seals isn't much fun. You may have to lift the engine just
to get the pan out.

Since you plan on fluid/filter change anyway, using the correct
procedure for dropping the pan will not result in a mess...although I'd
use a larger tub. If you intend to keep the vehicle for a long time,
you might consider installing an oil-drain in the pan. There are kits
available for this job.


A 'Pandoras Box' job. If there is a fuel leak, it has to be fixed. I
suggest leaving this to someone experienced in this work. Gasoline
isn't something a diy'r should be messin' with. Hospitals are
pricey....

Dave S(Texas)

david geesaman

Thanks for the response.

Plugs & wires are new, and were torqued appropriately. I believe the
ticking did not change from the original to new plugs. However, I suppose
it's possible one of the bores has some grit in there preventing a good seal.


Well we're only putting a couple thousand miles/year on the truck, but
it pains me to see oil on the ground. Do you know if it's possible to lift
this engine (351w) a bit from below?


I did pick up a drain plug kit. I'll have to look out for a bigger
tub - right now I have a 5-qt drain bin and a 5'x3'x1/2" metal pan. Is is
possible to empty a few quarts into the bin at a time, and use the pan to catch drips/slop?


Well I've done fuel line work on other vehicles - obviously the danger
is when you're using any metal tools. I'd take it to a shop, but I'm afraid
they'll take me to the cleaners on parts prices (charging $350 instead of
$200 for the Ford OEM FDM, or installing an aftermarket part that may not
last as long). I might start by simply removing the bed for a look-see
sometime when I have a helper.

Thanks again,

Dave

putt

No I'm not talking about something minor like grit, I'm saying the
problem was in the heads. Plugs 'popping' out of the hole! The
'ticking' sound was the first sign.....

As to the fuel problem: you are the best judge of your experience.
Gas/gas vapors in the confined space of a gas tank are a much different
ballgame than, "I've done fuel line work".....

Dave S(Texas)

david geesaman

Hi, I have a 95 F-150 4WD (5.8, E4OD, 150k miles) that we use for
towing. It's done well, and I've fixed a few annoyances, but it has some
mechanical items I would like an opinion on. I'm accustomed to doing nearly
all my own work by myself and w/o air tools, but since it won't fit in my
garage, I fear some of it may be unreasonable. At least I don't need to
jack it up to get underneath it.

Here's the laundry list:
* Ticking sound from right bank under throttle, in time with engine RPM.
It's perfectly consistent and around 2 ticks/second when near idle speed. I
wanted to check the EGR tube but stopped short of attempting to disassemble
it when I saw it resembled heavy plumbing. As well, the manifold didn't
show any cracks but it looked very tight and very rusted to attempt to
unbolt it for inspection. I looked into checking the timing, but it seems
there is no timing adjustment on these 95s. Any tips, or suggestions how to
diagnose and repair as a DIY or how bad$$ it might be at a shop?

* Oil collecting around oil pan. It's not enough to generate a puddle, but
has begun marking the parking space. I suspect pinhole corrosion leaks in
the pan, or dripping from the mainseals. If it's any of these problems, it
sounds very messy to repair them on my back in a parking space. Any help
for diagnosing this and determine how urgent this job is.

* ATF collecting around tranny pan. Again, it's just enough to wet the pan.
I was planning to drop the pan to change the fluid and install a basic
Transgo shift kit. But this could become one massive mess even with a 3'x5'
metal catch pan. Is there any way to do this without messing up the parking
space?

* Fuel tank leakage and/or bad check valves. The rear tank just pumps to
the front tank, and when it's full it seems to have a slight leak near the
rear filler neck. Is the filler neck, valves, etc easy to see when I have
the tank dropped? (I can drop the tank myself, but removing the bed sounds
like a 2-3 person job, and obviously less convenient).

Tips, links, advice appreciated.

Dave

Check the spark plugs and the holes. Plug may be broken. I recall a
problem with plugs becoming loose in the holes on some v-8 engines. I
think there was a recall because of this.....

This is in the catagory: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Replacing
the gaskets/seals isn't much fun. You may have to lift the engine just
to get the pan out.

Since you plan on fluid/filter change anyway, using the correct
procedure for dropping the pan will not result in a mess...although I'd
use a larger tub. If you intend to keep the vehicle for a long time,
you might consider installing an oil-drain in the pan. There are kits
available for this job.


A 'Pandoras Box' job. If there is a fuel leak, it has to be fixed. I
suggest leaving this to someone experienced in this work. Gasoline
isn't something a diy'r should be messin' with. Hospitals are
pricey....

Dave S(Texas)

david geesaman

Thanks for the response.

Plugs & wires are new, and were torqued appropriately. I believe the
ticking did not change from the original to new plugs. However, I suppose
it's possible one of the bores has some grit in there preventing a good seal.


Well we're only putting a couple thousand miles/year on the truck, but
it pains me to see oil on the ground. Do you know if it's possible to lift
this engine (351w) a bit from below?


I did pick up a drain plug kit. I'll have to look out for a bigger
tub - right now I have a 5-qt drain bin and a 5'x3'x1/2" metal pan. Is is
possible to empty a few quarts into the bin at a time, and use the pan to catch drips/slop?


Well I've done fuel line work on other vehicles - obviously the danger
is when you're using any metal tools. I'd take it to a shop, but I'm afraid
they'll take me to the cleaners on parts prices (charging $350 instead of
$200 for the Ford OEM FDM, or installing an aftermarket part that may not
last as long). I might start by simply removing the bed for a look-see
sometime when I have a helper.

Thanks again,

Dave

No I'm not talking about something minor like grit, I'm saying the
problem was in the heads. Plugs 'popping' out of the hole! The
'ticking' sound was the first sign.....

As to the fuel problem: you are the best judge of your experience.
Gas/gas vapors in the confined space of a gas tank are a much different
ballgame than, "I've done fuel line work".....

Dave S(Texas)