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1 28th June 07:11
redhotlx
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Posts: 1
Default fuel line repair



have an 88 t-bird, recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump. the return
line was damaged, and now have a fuel leak. can i use a dorman
compression union for the repair? someone told me that ford offers a fuel
line repair kit (that requires a special ford tool). my local ford parts
dept. has no clue.can anybody help?
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2 28th June 07:11
backyard mechanic
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Posts: 1
Default fuel line repair



If you're SURE it's the return line, you should be able to use any
compression union that fits snug..If it's the plastic line, make sure to
use the little sleeves that fit inside the line.


--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
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3 28th June 09:53
tom adkins
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Default fuel line repair


What line is damaged? Steel or plastic? If steel, is it the line on the sender? If
it's the steel line on the sender, you're out of luck, You have to buy another sender.
If it's a plastic line, it can be repaired, but the plastic line has to be heated to
accept the metal fittings. Boiling water works best. The repair kit from Ford is for
plastic line. The special tool is a crimper like device to push the coupler into the
line. It may be best approach, but I never saw the tool as a Ford Tech until 2001.
Heat the line in boiling water, insert and twist, heat again, push and twist, heat
again, repeat, ...
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4 28th June 23:41
doc
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Posts: 1
Default fuel line repair


I think I'm gonna try this boiling water method on the quick disconnect
fitting at my fuel rail. Will the hot water harm the two O-rings on
the fitting? How much are these crimper tools?
Thanks
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5 28th June 23:42
tom adkins
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Posts: 1
Default fuel line repair


Yes, this does work. I used the barbed union and boiling water trick for many years.
Last time I tried to buy one at the dealer, though, the parts man said they weren't
available anymore. You can trim the line back a little, just be careful that you don't
get it too short. I was picturing your leak a few inches back from the disconnect.
I've also heard of that installer tool, but never saw one. Specialty tools like that
are pricy, not feasable for a one off repair. You would do well to just replace the
o-rings. They are less than $2 and cheap insurance against a leak.
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