lapdog

130,000, and just and had tranny problems, I had the shop replace the clutch
too. Shop had a hard time bleeding the chutch, then they said "We had to
stand it on the rear bumper to get the air out of the slave cyl. because it
sits at a wierd angle making it hard to bleed". I drive it home and it felt
like the pedal was mushy, and it released about an inch from the floor.,
They had my truck about 2 weeks so I wasn't going to send it back to bleed
the clutch so I got out the trusty "Chitlens" manual, I bled the clutch
(took about an hour) but it's better , but it still seems a bit low
releasing.I moved my seat up a notch to compensate for the time being.
Question, has anyone else had problems bleeding the clutch in their Ranger
3.0 5-Speed?, if so what did you do to fix it? Is there a better way to
bleed, other than the Cliltons way? (press pedal to floor, open bleeder,
close bleeder, release clutch fast, repeat till air is out) Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

dave

dave

Wow Dave, looks like you're talking to yourself again!!
By the way, I did get the suggestion to use a bleeder pump, but I have to
believe that a tranny shop would have to have one on hand to do this sort of
job.

matt mead

No good answer for you since I don't own a Ranger. I do know that the
master cylinder on the Super Duty is usually replaced as a pre-bled
assembly as it has proven to be near impossible to bleed correctly in
the field. Is it possible the Ranger set-up has the same problem?

Matt
99 V-10 Super Duty, Super Cab 4x4 (w/replaced clutch and master
cylinder assembly)

transurgeon

here's how to do it:

get a length of hose that will fit over the bleeder valve

loosen bleeder, slip hose over it

raise the other end of the hose ABOVE the master cylinder, put a funnel on
it

pour flid into the funnel, keep filling till it overflows the master
cylinder

close bleeder, pump it a few times

repeat as necessary

it's a pain in the ass