Petebert 2011-10-25 13:46:24
sounds similiar to a problem I have posted below in “windstar stall on
start”, mine did start doing it on a rainy day, what could that mean?
Edward codd 2011-10-25 19:35:34
I couldn’t find any information included with your message Did I miss
something?. What was your problem, and how did you solve it?
Chowrunner 2011-10-25 19:35:38
Why are you putting your foot on the gas pedal to begin with?
I have started it as many as 10-15 times, only to have it stall out as soon
as I lift my foot off the gas. It will run ok if I keep my foot on the gas
With the electronic ignition, you shouldn’t have to touch the pedal to
Just curious, John
Petebert 2011-10-25 19:35:43
i put my foot on the pedal when it fires, if not it stalls, normally it acts
like a fuel injected engine should and runs when you turn the key
Petebert 2011-10-25 19:36:12
i posted mine on the 23rd, I havent found a cause or resolution yet , it
hasnt done it for the last 2 days, I replied to yours because you mentioned
something about moisture and mine happened on a rainy day.
haynes manual says to check wires at distributor, coil or alternator.
intake manifold vacuum leaks
poor fuel pressure
and fuel injection or engine control malfunction as possible causes
Chowrunner 2011-10-25 19:36:25
You would think if all those items are possible solutions, that somewhere a code
would be set that could be read with a decoder and give you somewhere specific
V.b. mercon 2011-10-25 19:37:34
Check the IAC motor, that is the Idle Air Control motor. Sounds like the
engine is not getting enough air at idle and is being flooded as the
computer commands more gas for a cold engine.
Edward codd 2011-10-26 01:35:27
In your first reply, you said you posted a problem in “windstar stall on start”,
but I couldn’t find it.
Can you tell me what your problem was, did you get it fixed, and what was the
Also to Chowrunner, the only reason I keep my foot on the gas is to keep it from
stalling. When the problem isn’t there, the car will start without touching the
Edward codd 2011-10-26 01:38:57
Good suggestion about the codes. I’ll ask my Ford mechanic, although he did say
that without the check engine light coming, or if he didn’t have it while the
problem existed, he didn’t thinkthere would be any codes stored.
Edward codd 2011-10-26 01:39:21
Thanks Mercon. I’ll add that to my list of things to have checked. he car
has been running great for the last few days, which compounds the problem
Edward codd 2011-10-26 12:54:34
I’ve checked with a Mercury dealer in my neighborhood, and the service
department thinks that the IAC is the most likely thing to be faulty.
However, since the problem is intermittent, there’s no guarantee that
changing the part will fix the problem. The part costs about $50-60, and to
have them fix it will cost $150.
Here are my questions. Is this something the average guy can replace with
just a few common tools–screwdrivers, open-end wrenches, vise grips,etc.?
Where is the IAC located? Is it accessible by opening the hood?
What do you think?
V.b. mercon 2011-10-26 18:14:06
I do believe the IAC is quite simple to replace.The most you will need is
the right size socket drive, and a scraper.
The IAC is located near the start of the upper intake manifold throttle
body. Once you obtain the replacement part, you will know what it looks like
and spot it quite easily. It is held in place by two bolts/screws. . In
addition to the new IAC, you will also need a new gasket ….Disconnect the
negative battery terminal. You may need to remove the air cleaner inlet
tube. Disconnect the electrical connector to the IAC valve, remove the two
bolts/screws, clean away the old gasket from the mating surface on the
intake manifold. Position the new gasket in place with the new IAC and
replace the two bolts/screws. Tighten to 71 – 106 inch pound(..note inch
pound..), DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, ..reconnect the electrical connector.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Now you are ready for the test
drive. Please let us know how things work out.