Grassy knollin 2006-12-02 05:54:47
Just rep[l;aced battery, local ford dealer sold me a universal one, not
the original, and the flippin battery strap I just bought (so and so’s
said I had to but belt and bracket and bolt for 11) is too long for the
generic battery (even the shorter white one…)
Is there a precise process to get the ECU to recalibrate
Haynes says Idle till warm
1200 rpm 2 minutes
then 5 miles driving
just done that and its running terribly, really lumpy idle, and
accelerating, engine warning light starts flashing and then goes out the
comes back on again then goes out etc.
Any ideas anyone
Zetec 1.8 2000
(they knocked another 200 off for the incorrect advert…)
Tim 2006-12-02 05:55:16
Have you knocked the wire off the air mass meter during battery change?
Running should not be anywhere near this poor during learning, and certainly
not with a flashing MIL lamp.
Grassy knollin 2006-12-02 05:55:39
yeah, thought it might be something else problem with the car
It was running rough and missing (sort of has power then chokes up then
has power then chokes up etc. and missing at low revs) before I changed
battery, so it obviously wasnt the battery… thought it might be.
its still doing the same thing after the battery
It starts OK.
I was wondering if it was the last tank full of gas I put in… It started
can the self test mode on odometer show fault codes?
This list looks like it might be different to my ECU which does go into
Grassy knollin 2006-12-02 05:57:30
Checked air mass meter connections and they are OK.
That should shed a bit of light on it…