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1 11th August 06:15
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Wizard of Claws (teething lips)


INDEEDY! Here's your puppy raising tips!

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.


Psychoclown wrote:

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something
you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro
manure."

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says:

"I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit
of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the
article (SHE'D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON'T READ IT!),
there is NO mention in it of twisting ears (INDEED, SHE
PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES).

I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO
BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM).

I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE'S A
PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to
ADMIT THE TRUTH???).

I do not believe there is a single cir***stance, ever, where
slapping a dog is anything but destructive."

RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists... and chin cuff doesn't
mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama....

amy lyingfrosty dahl continues:

"Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable
dogs may require you to progress to striking them more
sharply.

REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of
as force-fetching: the ear pinch.

Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.

but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch
the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth,
get out the shotshell.

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the
collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the
dog will give in

With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.'

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick.

Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy.
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb; Say 'fetch' while pressing the dummy against its lips
and pinching its ear."

Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis.


"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch
Right, Either They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They
Have A Very Stoic Dog. Some Dogs Will Collapse
Into A Heap. About The Ear Pinch: You Must Keep
The Pressure Up," sindy "don't let the dog SCREAM"
mooreon, author of HOWER FAQ's pages on k9 web.

You think HURTING a HUNTING DOG to
MAKE IT HUNT is NECESSARY???

"Well, Jack Did Hit My Dog. Actually I'd Call It
A Sharp Tap Of The Crook To The Nose. I Know
Jack Wouldn't HaveDone It If He Thought Solo
Couldn't Take It. I Still Crate Him Because
Otherwise I Fear He Might Eat My Cat," melanie.

You think allowing a "FEAR AGGRESSIVE MAN
SHY" dog to be BEATEN by a strange male trainer
is INTELLIGENT BEHAVIOR for a DOG LOVER?

"Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem
Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A
Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens,
But You'll Get Over It."mike duforth, author:
"Courteous Canine."

You think HURTIN dogs and CRINGING
is COURTEOUS?

"I have heard advice stating that you should pre-load
your dog for Bitter Apple for it to work as efficiently
as possible. What does this mean?"

Means the author is a dog abuser of the worst magnitude.

"When you bring home the Bitter Apple for
the first time, spray one squirt directly into
the dog's mouth and walk away. The dog
won't be too thrilled with this but just ignore
him and continue your normal behavior."

You think HURTING your dog is NORMAL BEHAVIOR?

--Mike Dufort
author of the zero selling book
"Courteous Canines"

You think HOWER pals are playin with a full deck?
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2 11th August 06:15
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Wizard of Claws (down exercise lips)


INDEEDY! You'll need some puppy raising tips!

"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch Right,
Either They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They Have A Very
Stoic Dog. Some Dogs Will Collapse Into A Heap. About
The Ear Pinch: You Must Keep The Pressure Up," sindy
"don't let the dog SCREAM" mooreon, author of HOWER
FAQ's pages on k9 web.

You think HURTING a HUNTING DOG to MAKE
IT HUNT is NECESSARY???

"Well, Jack Did Hit My Dog. Actually I'd Call It A Sharp Tap
Of The Crook To The Nose. I Know Jack Wouldn't HaveDone
It If He Thought Solo Couldn't Take It. I Still Crate Him Because
Otherwise I Fear He Might Eat My Cat," melanie.

You think allowing a "FEAR AGGRESSIVE MAN
SHY" dog to be BEATEN by a strange male trainer
is INTELLIGENT BEHAVIOR for a DOG LOVER?

Subject: "Don't Let Your Dog Scream. Use Your Hand
To Hold His Muzzle Closed And Tell Him To Quit Moaning,"
cindymooreon.

Hey, check it out? Here's our cindy "Don't Let Your Dog
Scream" mooreon's forced fetch page, the one she refused to
discuss and threatened to sue us for quoting from. So here it
is in full. Barf warning.
"Cindy" <tittle@io.com> wrote in message news:C80%7.207860$m05.17713518@bin5.nnrp.aus1.giga news.com...

Yes. You only feel good when you're hurting something.

Looks can be deceiving like your pronged spiked pinch choke
collar. HOWE can we know what a dog feels? You bums want a new
definition for hurt. We got to have broken bones or blistered
skin to have hurt.

No doubt. Sadists and cowards only enjoy inflicting pain.


Below is your forced fetch page... Hello cindymooreon,
"Cindy" <tittle@io.com> wrote in message news:M%eY7.109765$m05.9709385@bin5.nnrp.aus1.gigan ews.com...

I wouldn't bet on that.

That's usually a result of ANXITY from being punished for jumping or mouthing.

That's nice of them. Birdies can cause a lot of damage to a dog's eyes.


Yeah. You prefer they don't.


Ever play ball with a dog?


Yeah. That's HOWE COME cindymooreon likes to twist and pinch ears
and toes and chuck and cuff and shock dogs to
make them do that.

That's pinched choked shocked and beaten into them.


That's pinched choked shocked and beaten outta them.

Visual oral reflex.

Because if they don't play they get jerked and choked and
shocked and beaten till they do play. And they get hung if
they object to their training.


Yeah. Like your pal lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn's flunkie sar
dog Jive...

Hey, check it out? Here's your forced fetch page, the one you
refused to discuss and threatened to sue us for quoting from.
So here it is in full.

Thanks for the FUN:

Here's MOORE reasons why our Gang Of Thugs are EMBARRASSED by
their own works. Here's the post
cindymooreon of our faqs page at k9web threatened
to sue us for copyright infringement if we quoted it:

What is Force Fetching All About?

by Cindy Tittle Moore
Copyright 1997,1998 by the
author; all rights reserved.

THE FORCE FETCH

Alright! Now you are (finally) ready to force fetch your dog.
I repeat, you want to have an experienced person help you out,
someone who has already force fetched her own dogs whether for
obedience or field.

This step in the training entails what is
termed avoidance behavior. In a nutshell, the dog is taught
how to "turn off" a negative stimulus. He is carefully taught
that he has complete control over it.

This is a very effective way of teaching, but does
require a more astute sense of timing than some other training
methods and is very difficult for some people to do, for a
variety of reasons. However, if the dog properly knows HOLD at
this point, it's easily done with a minimum of fuss.

Return to your quiet starting place, with the dog on a collar
and leash in front of you, sitting quietly. Instead of opening
his mouth as you have been for the HOLD, put your hand through
the dog's collar (to hold him steady) and with your thumb and
forefinger pinch

the tip of his ears and say TAKE IT (or FETCH, or whatever
you want) Watch his mouth closely -- the moment he opens his
mouth, pop that dumbbell in, let go of his ear but not the
collar, and PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE. Do this three or four times
per session.

When he is opening his mouth in anticipation of the dumbbell,
the next step is to hold the dumbbell just past his lips. This
next step is for him to move his head forward that inch (or
half inch) necessary to get the dumbbell. At this point, he
has a pretty good notion that getting that darned thing into
his mouth is the way to turn off the ear pinch. Most dogs will
lean forward and get it. That's his second milestone! Praise,
praise, praise and repeat three or four times this session.
Remember, I said these sessions were no more than 5 minutes or so
each. That's still true.

Gradually extend the distance so he has to reach further to
get it. Now here is where a few subtleties come into play.
It's not enough for him to merely reach out and grab it. You
want him to commit to getting it. You want him to be intent on
getting it. If he sort of limply reaches over and gets it,
that's not what you want. If you pinch him but have to drag
him toward the dumbbell, that's not what you want either.
We're back to the visualization.

What do you want him to do? You want him to, if necessary,
bust through just about anything to get that dumbbell. So hold
on to that collar until you feel him pulling out of it to get
that. That's his committment.

You want to say TAKE IT and have him just about explode out to
get the dumbbell. As you get further along in this, you will
release him when he's made a good committment -- this will
help shape a speedy response nicely. I think you can see why
it helps to have an experienced person around when you are
doing this! It can be difficult to keep all these things in
mind when you are actually sitting there with a dog in your
hands.

About the ear pinch: You must keep the pressure up until the
instant he has the dumbbell securely in his mouth. Many people
have problems getting the pinch right, either they do not
pinch enough, or they have a very stoic dog in which case case
a collar may be needed to help make the pinch more effective.
Also some dogs are screamers, and if they find that they can
stop the pinching by screaming, they've learned the avoidance
technique just fine -- but not with the behavior you had in
mind!

Don't let your dog scream. Use your hand to hold his muzzle
closed and tell him to quit moaning. Some dogs will collapse
into a heap. Don't let them do that, that's why your hand is
in the collar. Hold them up and get them back into a sitting
position. What your dog is doing is trying to find other ways
of avoiding the ear pinch.

You need to be firm and consistent and demonstrate that
getting the dumbbell is the only means of avoidance.

Remember to keep him under control. When he gets that dumbbell
in his mouth, pull him gently around back to you and sit him
back down. You may in fact want to sit him at your side in the
heel position (whether or not he actually knows the heel
position), hold the dumbbell in front of him, command him to
take it and then pull him back to a front or finish position
as you wish. The pattern will do him good later.

The next major milestone is putting the dumbbell on the ground
for him to pick up. For many dogs this can be a big deal and
may be difficult. Set the dumbbell on the ground just in front
of them, with your hand on the dumbbell. He may not reach for
it, he may refuse -- keep up the ear pressure until he finally
picks it up. If he really doesn't seem to understand this,
then break this down into an intermediate step where you hold
the dumbbell, but about 1/2 way between the ground and his
mouth.

Once he's picked the dumbbell off the ground, that's a major
milestone and you are just about home free.

As before slowly place the dumbbell further away on the ground
in front of him. Make sure he is pulling out of your hold on
the collar before you let him pick the dumbbell up. If he
drops the dumbbell from this point on, you will get control
of him (put him in a sit with a firm hold on his collar) and
pinch him back to the dumbbell -- he can pick it up now so
there is no need for you to put it in his mouth any more. HE
is the one responsible for getting it.

When he is reliably picking up the dumbbell a few feet from
you, then you can stop using the pinch at the beginning of the
exercise.

You will instead reserve it for when he drops the dumbbell or
refuses to pick it up, etc. So for example, you might go out,
place the dumbbell 6 feet away, put the long lead on him, tell
him to take it. Let's say he hesitates and doesn't go out.
Then you pinch, force him to commit, send him to the dumbbell.
Let's say he goes and gets it, but starts playing with it.
Pull him in, and if he hasn't already dropped the dumbbell,
take it out of his mouth, put it back where it was, and pinch
him to it.

There is one last problem you need to watch for. Many dogs,
especially retrievers, will start pouncing on the dumbbell
once they are able to run out a few steps to it before picking
it up. So transition to this point with a long cotton lead
about 20-30 feet long.

With this you can spin him round the moment he scoops up the
dumbbell, teaching him that he cannot play with it. If your
dog drops the dumbbell, use the lead to pull him back to you
(do not let him try to pick it up), and pinch him back to it.
the basic rule of thumb
is that if he drops it, he will be pinched back to it
regardless.

Thoughts to Consider

Force fetching is never completely done, per se (as with any
exercise taught to a dog). You may need to do a refresher
course when it's something new to pick up, or if it's
something disgusting (like a very dead bird) to pick up. He
may also start to get lazy, you need to keep an eye on him.
You may also realize you omitted some step in training him
that shows up later so you will have to go back and fix it.

But you should also take care to make sure he doesn't forget
any of these hard-earned lessons! Make him carry things for
you. He can carry his own ball out to the park. He can carry
his own utility articles to the ring. He can help you carry a
light bag of groceries into the house. He can help you carry
firewood. They will just love this, and it's a good way to
keep the talents honed. Use it!


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