the puppy wizard

Art & science in dog training - The CONCEPT OF "EXTINGUISHING
BEHAVIORS" WAS ONLY TO
IGNORE THEM TILL THEY GO AWAY... -

Let's Talk About SAR And The Term "RINGWIZE"

HOWEDY lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn,


You're full of crap. Dog trainin is PRECISE science,
according to The Puppy Wizzzard's FREE WWW Wits' End
Dog Training Method Manual as PROVEN by The Puppy
Wizzzard's Doggy Do Right (And Kitty Will And A Rooster
Did And A ****atoo Or Two Did Too)machine.

They both rely on the SAME SAME SAME SAME scientific and psychological techniques.

The GL is NOT gentle nor is it a leader, it's a vicious
neck twisting torture device designed by your NADOI pals
with the help of a veterinary behaviorist who HURTS, DRUGS,
and KILLS dogs for a living, as a LAST RESORT.

You mean instead of shocking them as you've done to your dog.
That's HOWE COME your sar dog Jive can't SAR.


You're a liar and dog abuser.

You're a blowhard.

The Puppy Wizzzard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training
Method Manual trains ALL dogs nearly instantly.


You're a liar and dog abuser. You'll do and say ANYTHING
to defend your alleged right to hurt and kill dogs.


Your pals hurt and kill dogs like you do.

The term "extinction burst" has never beeen used here or
by yourself PRYOR to The Puppy Wizzzard teaching here.


That's curious. PRYOR to The Puppy Wizzzard, the term
EXTINCTION has NEVER been used on this forum, EXCEPT
AS AN EXCUSE TO ALLOW THE DOG TO CONTINUE TO EXPERIENCE EXTREME
FRUSTRATION AND REINIFORCE
BAD BEHAVIOR IN THE FAR FETCHED HOPE OF OUTLASTING
THE UNWANTED BEHAVIOR BY IGNORING IT.

I.O.W., the CONCEPT OF "EXTINGUISHING BEHAVIORS"
WAS ONLY TO IGNORE THEM TILL THEY GO AWAY...
HARDLY AN EFFECTIVE, APPROPRIATE, HARMLESS
TRAINING METHOD:

From: Elizabeth B. Naime (elspeth@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu)
Subject: Re: 3 Month old Puppy Problems?? LONG

"All the books say that "a behavior that is not reinforced or
rewarded will go away". It's generally true, BUT if something
has been rewarded in the past (like begging for food) the dog
will usually get worse before it starts to get better. I
think this is called an "extinction burst"? So when you
ignore her at table, she gets louder and more obnoxious. If
you can put up with it and just not respond at all, ever, it
will probably go away in time; but if you give in even just
once you have taught the dog that persistence pays off. So
you could do this (ignore it and it will go away) but it will
be a long hard road and you absolutely have to be consistent
about it or it'll get worse."

From: Elizabeth B. Naime (elspeth@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu)
Subject: Re: bitch of a neighbour
Date: 1995/08/29

Ian,
Yep, big problem. *sigh* Fact is, your neighbor
DID train your dog to do someof these things
(come to her house and beg to be let in, bark to
be let out of the yard), but you've also let her do so.

Time to put a stop to the part you have control over.

First, confine the dog inside. He may still bark when left
alone, particularly at first, but the neighbor can't come by
to let him out (without breaking and entering at least) and
the noise should be somewhat muffled by the house. If the dog
is not used to being left alone in the house you will have to
begin by crating or otherwise confining him -- a bored,
annoyed, stressed dog who is used to getting his way and
doesn't undestand why it's not working now can do an amazing
amount of damage and most of it because he's worried. You can
work up to giving him the run of the house once he understands
what's expected of him and that he's not locked in there
forever.

Once you have him in the house and out of the neighbor's way
you will need to teach him not to bark in your absence. This
is normally a difficult task requiring lots of patience, so
start on a weekend or when you have all day to go away and
come back many times. Also be aware that since his barking
has been rewarded, it will get MUCH WORSE for a short while
before it gets better. I think behaviorists call this an
"extinction burst". It's very very important that you never
give in to the barking, from now on, because he has already
learned that persistence pays and one slip up on your part will reinforce that."


That so? The Puppy Wizzzard doesn't play "word twister."


The Puppy Wizzzard sez dogs only respond to cir***stances
and situations of their environment in instinctive, normal,
natural,
innate, reflexive, ways, as WE provide for them.


What it means to the dog is irrelevant. What it means to
dog trainers is, "ALL DOG BEHAVIOR PROBLMES ARE
CAUSED BY MISHANDLING."

From: SRLindsay (srlindsay@aol.com)
Subject: Re: furniture licking

"While some form of aversive counterconditioning may be
eventually required (e.g., a toss of shaker can or resorting
to a repellent of some kind), I would advise a more
conservative approach for now involving extinction (ignore the
dog or leave the room), shape non-licking behavior with
rewards, redirect licking behavior into a more acceptable
outlet, and alter the environment so the behavior is less likely to occur."

From: Jeff Vineburg (jeffv@netaxs.com)
Subject: Re: Howling When Owner Absent
Date: 1995/10/26
scout@milab.com (E. Simmer) wrote:


This is unfortunately too familiar to me.

My neurotic poster-child has gotten to the point where he
howls when we go away, even if we leave him uncrated, with
relatives! They're all very entertained by the howling, and
he eventually settles down and starts shadowing the relative.

But I digress.....

One way to combat the noise is to hide in the house or right
outside til the noise starts. Then burst into the room and
make a racket on the crate door (god doesn't like noisy
little dogs). Seems a bit cruel, but beats the alternatives."

=================

From: r_sette@usaor.net (r_sette@usaor.net)
Subject: Re: Help-Dog Wants Attention All The Time!!!
Date: 1996/05/10

I would suggest ignoring the dog **completely** when it comes
up to you to play. When it brings you a ball, let the ball
drop at your feet. Play with the dog when you initiate the
play. If the dog pesters you, and you give it attention (even
looking at the dog or pushing it away), you have given the dog
what he/she wants, and taught the dog to come and bite your
ankles when it wants attention.

This "extinction" can be extremely difficult, but it has been
very beneficial for my 16-month old dalmatial adopted from a
kennel. "

======================

There's your "state of the art..." lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn.

From: Elizabeth B. Naime (elspeth@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu)
Subject: Re: Schedules of reinforcement question Date: 1996/10/09
In article <3256f426.14311382@news.airmail.net>,
saturn@airmail.net (Dave Smith) writes:


Actually, behaviors on nonvariable schedules of reinforcement
can have really obnoxious "extinction bursts", perhaps more
intensely than variably reinforced behaviors (I can try to
look this up if there's really an interest here).

But behaviors on a variable schedule take *longer* to
extinguish, which is precisely what we want in dog training
(as well as what we don't want in accidentally reinforced
nuisance behaviors)."

=========================

And here's HOWE you apply it, according to professora "CHIN
CHUCK absolutely doesn't mean slap" gingold:

From: AVRAMA GINGOLD (avrama_gingold@izone.com)
Subject: Re: harsh correction
Date: 1996/05/29

The harshness of a correction should also be a
function of how heinous the mistake is, and how
important it is that it never again occur. Thus if
you want to completely extinguish a response
(behavior) you might need a much harsher correction
than if you are willing to have a few more
repetitions of the undesirable behavior before it is
extinguished.

Please note I am also referring to the importance of
extinction, not just to the preference for
extinguishing a response. Thus if you have a pup who
manages to chew electric wires (even after you've
done everything possible to keep them out of reach),
it is understandable to give a harsh correction the
first time you see him chewing wires. A second
episode might leave you with a fatally electrocuted
puppy! On the other paw, failure to keep a
sit/stay, or to do a perfect heel, is not a life and
death matter.

I dislike the joining of "harsh" with "correction."
A correction is not really intended as a punishment.
It is exactly what it says: a correction, showing the
correct behavior. The "harsh correction" mentioned
above in conjunction with wire chewing is most
definitely a negative or noxious stimulus, intended
to create an avoidance response -- the pup sees wires
and avoids them like the plague. The pup eyes the
legs of a chair, you say "uh uh" or clear your
throat, and then give the pup a rawhide chewtoy, and
say "good boy" when he starts to chew the
rawhide--THAT is a correction. You have altered the
behavior and provided an alternative behavior.

avrama & shomer

Of curse, we know HURTING dogs to train them is CONTRAWIZE, AS IT
TEACHES THE DOG TO DO
THE BEHAVIOR WHEN YOU'RE NOT STANDING
THERE READY TO HURT IT SOMEMOORE, AND
CAUSES TEMPERAMENT AND HEALTH PROBLEMS.

LIKE AGGRESSION, SELF MUTILATION, AND DEATH.

Tell us HOWE COME professora chin chuck sez
chin chuck ain't hittin???

Then we can talk about SAR and the term "RINGWIZE."


"Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh
And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The
First Few Times It Happens, But You'll Get Over It." mike
duforth, author: "Courteous Canine."

"I have heard advice stating that you should pre-load
your dog for Bitter Apple for it to work as efficiently as
possible. What does this mean?

When you bring home the Bitter Apple for the first time,
spray one squirt directly into the dog's mouth and walk
away. The dog won't be too thrilled with this but just
ignore him and continue your normal behavior."

We're gonna teach folks THAT AIN'T NORMAL...

--Mike Dufort
author of the zero selling book
"Courteous Canines"

Thank you, mikes. Couldn't do it without YOUR help.


"Rocky" <2dogs@rocky-dog.com> wrote in message news:Xns92FEEC097E4AAaustralianshepherdca@130.133. 1.4...

"Rocky" <2dogs@rocky-dog.com> wrote in message news:Xns92FDD80D96A67australianshepherdca@130.133. 1.4...


"Rocky" <2dogs@rocky-dog.com> wrote in message news:Xns92FE730764918australianshepherdca@130.133. 1.4...

"Melinda Shore" <shore@panix.com> wrote in message news:avju0e$la2$1@panix2.panix.com...


Is that true, Marilyn?

Of course not~ but THIS IS:

"Chin CHUCK absolutely doesn't mean slap," professora gingold.

terri willis, Psychoclown wrote:
"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is
something you twisted out of context, because you
are full of bizarro manure."

Sez on our FAQ'S pages at K9 Web you should knee the
dog in the chest, step on its toes, throw him down by his
ears and climb all over it like a ****d ape growling into
his throat and bite IT on his ears, or leash pop it on a
pronged spiked pinch choke collar or pop him in the
snout with the heel of your palm.
"Marshall Dermer" <dermer@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu> wrote in message news:a3h5qn$mra$1@uwm.edu...


You failed to mention your pals the dahls are proven liars and
dog abusers, professor "SCRUFF SHAKE:"

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A Dog I Do Not
Believe There Is A Single Cir***stance Ever, Where
Slapping A Dog Is Anything But Destructive," "I don't see
why anyone would want to choke or beat a dog, or how any
trainer could possibly get a good working dog by making
them unhapper, fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying
frosty dahl who continues:

amy lying frosty dahl continues:

"On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have
trained require much more frequent and heavy application
of pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done,

This is continued resistance to your increasing
authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome

Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper wield the
stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs
may require you to progress to striking them more sharply

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the
collar,
even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the
dog
will give in

but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts
to escaping the ear pinch

You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of
your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear
against that

Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.

CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever Ready Right Hand,
As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch.
When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems
totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished

This is continued resistance to your increasing
authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome"
If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly under the chin, say
"No! Hold!"

(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps because the ear
is getting tender, or the dog has decided it isn't worth
it)" lying frosty dahl.

"Chin cuff absolutely does not mean slap," professora
gingold.
From: Marshall Dermer (dermer@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
In article <38CC0C43.94E2DDD1@earthlink.net> rhurwitz@earthlink.net writes:

Please try Powell's Books in Portland Oregon. Their URL
is:

http://www.powells.com/

Unlike Amazon.com, Powell's keeps both new and used
books on its shelves. You can order books via e-email.

Koehler Method Of Dog Training
by Koehler, W R
Published by HOWELL BOOK HOUSE
(0876056575,

================================================== ======

Here's some quotes and some methods right outta your
koehler book professor "SCRUFF SHAKE and scream "NO!"
into its face for 5 seconds:"

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training (1962). New York:
Howell Book Book House(p. 52-53)."

Hanging

"First, the trainer makes certain that the collar and leash
are more than adequate for any jerk or strain that the
dog's most frantic actions could cause. Then he starts
to work the dog deliberately and fairly to the point where
the dog makes his grab. Before the teeth have reached
their target, the dog, weight permitting, is jerked from
the ground.

As in coping with some of the afore-mentioned problems
the dog is suspended in mid-air.

However, to let the biting dog recover his footing while
he still had the strength to renew the attack would be
cruelty. The only justifiable course is to hold him
suspended until he has neither the strength nor
inclination to renew the fight. When finally it is
obvious that he is physically incapable of expressing his
resentment and is lowered to the ground, he will
probably stagger loop-legged for a few steps,
vomit once or twice, and roll over on his side.

The sight of a dog lying, thick-tongued, on his side,
is not pleasant, but do not let it alarm you

THE REAL "HOOD"

"If your dog is a real "hood" who would regard the
foregoing types of protest as "kid stuff" and would
express his resentment of your efforts by biting,
your problem is difficult -- and pressing.

"Professional trainers often get these extreme problems.
Nearly always the "protest biter" is the handiwork of a
person who, by avoiding situations that the dog might
resent, has nurtured the seeds of rebellion and then
cultivated the resultant growth with under correction.

When these people reap their inevitable and oftentimes
painful harvest, they are ready to avail themselves of
"the cruel trainer" whose advice they may have once
rejected because it was incompatible with the sugary
droolings of mealy-mouthed columnists, breed-ring
biddies, and dog psychologists who, by the broken skins
and broken hearts their misinformation causes, can be
proven guilty of the greatest act of cruelty to animals
since the dawn of time.

"With more genuine compassion for the biting dog than
would ever be demonstrated by those who are "too kind"
to make a correction and certainly with more disregard
for his safety, the professional trainer morally feels
obligated to perform a "major operation."

"Since we are presently concerned with the dog that bites
in resentment of the demands of training, we will set our
example in that situation. (In a later chapter we will
deal with the with the much easier problem of the dog
that bites someone other than his master."

SEE? Now you better get down to study your FREE copy
of my FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual and
ask me for FREE heelp if you need any MOORE...

Your Puppy Wizard. <}YPW;~} >

P.S. Please, if you are compelled to reply to Your Puppy
Wizard's posts, snip text and trim crossposts and put
NINNYBOY in the subject header to avoid EMBARRASSMENT.

It's a rpdb CONVENTION. And a Wits' End Dog Training Method
CONVENTION... just so's WE can KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON YOU,
TO BE SHORE. <{TPW; ~ } >