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1 20th February 22:29
the puppy wizard
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Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking



Dogs get yeast ear infections from STRESS...


part of
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2 21st February 20:17
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking



Yeast infections are caused by STRESS.
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3 21st February 20:17
jokerpit
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


or dirty *****.....cat
BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAHHHHAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAHA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA


news:2Canb.6116$X22.5363@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
: Yeast infections are caused by STRESS. :
: "Julia Altshuler" <jaltshuler@comcast.net> wrote in message : news:Cpanb.41930$e01.97058@attbi_s02...
: > Melinda Shore wrote:
: >
: >
: > > I wouldn't mess with this. Duncan has substantial hearing
: > > loss which I believe is the result of frequent ear (yeast,
: > > usually) infections.
: >
: >
: > Thanks for the warning. I checked with the vet, went into some : detail
: > of symptoms over the phone and decided that this one is not an
: > emergency. She has an appointment for tomorrow.
: >
: > --Lia
: >
:
:
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4 21st February 20:17
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


HOWEDY pups,


liea is a dog abuser and liar and MENTAL CASE, like yourself, just DIFFERENT.


ANNOYING to liea. You and your pals aren't concerned
with the DOG'S FEELINGS or you wouldn't HURT and
KILL them or take them HOWETA perfectly good HOWESES,
like you generHOWEsly offered nessa's dogs.

her leash,

That's a SUBTERFUGE and nervHOWES response to
avoid her PRONGED SPIKED PINCH CHOKE COLLAR, pups.


On accHOWENT of liea HURTS her on leash.


BWEEEEAAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

liea would have to STOP HURTIN HER.


INDEEDY. It's a nerveHOWES response.


It could be a yeast ear infection from STRESS
or it could be a OCD behavior problem from STRESS.


That IS annoyin, ain't it, PUPS.


Yeah. Means liea don't mind Cubbe bein UNCOMFORTABLE
so long as IT doesn't disturb her beauty rest.


Smell?

Dogs GET ear infections from STRESS.

liea is a MENTAL CASE... like yourself, only different.

You think so?


Could be, if there's no infection.

Well, you're a nice person.

Tell us MOORE abHOWET "TOO MANY NO KILL SHELTERS," kind2dogs?


"Julia Altshuler" <jaltshuler@comcast.net> wrote in message news:75fmb.19237$e01.35956@attbi_s02...

INDEEDY. EveryWON likes to blame allergies
and diet for their dog's EMOTIONAL / PHYSICAL DIS-EASE problems.


The veterinary will likely do tests which will find
NO PROBLEM and will likely prescribe STEROIDS
to relieve the INFLAMATION of LICKING DERMATITIS,
an ANXIETY BEHAVIOR PROBLEM.

The Puppy Wizard has been successful for decades
CURING licking dermatitis as it's a common problem
amongst Great Danes, The Puppy Wizard's breed.


The redness is inflamation or stain from saliva.


You think the pink is wearin off his tongue, liea?


Resident lunatics? You're a CERTIFIED MENTAL CASE, liea.


INDEED? You think mentally ill people should
be IGNORED, liea? The Puppy Wizard thinks
mentally ill people should seek TREATMENT
and receive SUPPORT in their rehabilitative
efforts, liea.

The PROBLEM IS, you don't RECOGNIZE that
you're a liar, a dog abuser, and a screamin flamin
MENTAL CASE and hypocrite, liea.

THAT'S the NATURE of MENTAL ILLNESS HOWEver,
so The Puppy Wizard will do EVERY THING HE CAN
to HEELP you RECOGNIZE your MENTAL ILLNESS
and direct you to TREATMENT in a secure mental
health facility for the CRIMINALLY INSANE.

You ask HOWE COME "criminally insane," liea?

Well, what you do to your dog Cubbe IS CRIMINAL
and MENTALLY ILL.

That's HOWE COME The Puppy Wizard sez
you're CRIMINALLY INSANE and requre in
HOWES treatment at a secure STATE facility
for the criminally insane.


That so? You're OBSESSED with The Puppy Wizard.


You're a MENTAL CASE a LIAR and a DOG ABUSER, liea.

HERE'S PROOF:

"I'd call the SHOCK fence effective and safe.
Humane is one of those hot words that people
can debate all day so I won't touch that one.
There are people who would call a regular chain
link fence inhumane," liea altshuller.


Here's Cubbe ATTACKING a neighbor's dog just
last week, and previHOWEsly attacking liea's only
friend and assaulting a couple kids and escaping
her surrHOWEND SHOCK SYSTEM, which MADE
HER AGGRESSIVE:

From: Julia Altshuler (jaltshuler@comcast.net)
Subject: Cubbe report: Chief
Date: 2003-09-12 21:04:11 PST

Chief if my neighbor Jo's 40# 1 1/2 year old Sheltie.
Jim has been running into them on his morning walks
with Cubbe. For a week he's been feeding me glowing
reports about how Cubbe is terrific with Chief.

Cubbe has never been particularly wonderful with any
other dog, so terrible in fact that I'd despaired at ever
seeing Cubbe frolic and play with other dogs.

I'd resigned myself to the idea that Cubbe is happy
with her people, her yard, her squirrels, her spot on
the couch, and that makes a pretty good life, one
that doesn't involve the companionship of her own
species. Jim's reports were encouraging.

Jim convinced Jo to bring Chief over for a playdate.
We put Cubbe on a leash so she could meet Chief
again on neutral territory. They sniffed as dogs
normally do.

Chief and Cubbe entered the front door. To my
amazement, all was fine. Out in the backyard
and off leash, Cubbe didn't pay much attention
to Chief, but there was no trouble even though
she and Chief were close to each other.

Both dogs seemed more interested that their
people were handing out treats (for good behaviors
like SITs).

Jim went into the house for some balls thinking the 2
dogs would like to chase them together. He did not
consult me about this hare brained scheme.

Jo and I were 5 feet away from the dogs when Cubbe
decided to attack Chief. She's not an experienced fighter
so I don't know if attack is the right word. She was snarfing,
making growly noises, jumping on Chief, had her mouth on
Chief's neck (on his back, behind his ears) and basically not
looking friendly, but I think if she'd wanted to do real damage,
she would have, and Chief was fine, nary a hair out of place.

Naturally with us all right there, we were able to intervene in
seconds.

A second later, it was all over. Cubbe looked like she'd
like to be friends again, but Chief, while not running away
or anything was obviously spooked and keeping his distance. Jo
and Chief went home. (I went with them for chat and
apologies, but that's not part of the Cubbe story.)

Cubbe has never food or toy guarded with people. Might
she have been guarding the balls Jim brought out? Or
was it the fact that we let our guard down for a few seconds
and she got scared of Chief when we all weren't practically
on top of her? Or did we push her too far by leaving her and
Chief together for too many minutes when a few seconds
would have been better for a first try? Or other theories?

Do we continue trying to find a dog that will put up with
Cubbe? Or do we give up again and go back to letting
Cubbe live a dogless existence?

--Lia

===================


"It Was Horrible! I Let Cubbe Out In The Backyard With
Her Usual ZAP Collar - The 10 Year Old Child Went To
Give Cubbe A Hug She Gave A Snarl-Snap Cubbe Got
Out In The Neighborhood Leashless From:

Julia F N Altshuler (d000634c@dc.seflin.org)
Subject: 1 step forward, 2 steps back
Date: 2001-01-07 19:28:05 PST

Cubbe got out in the neighborhood leashless for the first time
in roughly 2 years. The first few times were when we first got
her before she'd had any training and before we got the
electric fence to reinforce the physical one.

It was horrible. She paid us no attention, ignored clickers
and treats and calls. Make that, it was horrible for us. She
had a blast running free and chasing whatever she wanted. For
us it was 45 minutes of sheer terror as we tried to catch her.
Luckily there wasn't too much traffic yesterday morning. It
had snowed, and the streets weren't quite clear yet. Jim
finally caught her when she was preoccupied with her head down a
hole.

For 2 years I've been giving her a daily long walk in the
neighborhood. She now walks pretty nicely on a leash. She gets
daily indoor clicker training sessions. She has perfect
recalls in the house. She gets intermittent treats for those
recalls. She gets plenty of time to run free in the backyard.
Her recalls are less reliable there, but I've been working on
them. I haven't been as good about introducing the variable
reinforcement there, but I have been good about making sure
that she's never tricked into coming into the house when she'd
rather be outside. I always call her, give her a treat or
praise and let her go again.

So I haven't been a perfect dog trainer, but I don't think I'm
a terrible one. I say that because I'm about to ask y'all for
some help in correcting my mistakes, and while I don't mind
criticism for past mistakes, I am hoping you'll concentrate on
what I should do now.

Yesterday morning Cubbe had had some nice backyard time. I'd
gotten her into the house and was preparing to leave when she
escaped straight through the front door and right in front of
our noses. She was still wearing the zap collar, but the
battery was low. She gave a small yip when she went over the
wire, and the chase ensued.

We were careful not to scold her once she was caught.

Today I let her out in the backyard with her usual zap collar
now with a fresh battery. She was waiting by the backdoor to
come in when I went to call her. From her excited behavior, I
could tell that she fully expected to be let out the front
door again so she could have another fun romp in the
neighborhood. I'm so filled with anxiety from yesterday's
escapade that I keep checking for her every time I open the
door.

Later in the afternoon, she was much worse
about coming when called even from the backyard.

My specific questions:

How do I teach recalls when she so clearly knows
when she's in a confined space and when she isn't?

She normally only wears the zap collar when she's in the
backyard because the wire goes around the house and could zap her
when she's near certain windows inside. If I let her get
zapped at the front door with the zap collar, can I still take
the zap collar off and walk her out the front door with her
leash on? I don't want her to become afraid of the front door.

What's the best emergency procedure if, god forbid, it should
happen again?

Might Cubbe be ready for harsher training techniques? By this
I mean, I've been using clicker and treats for Cubbe because
she so obviously freaked when we used leash corrections and
scoldings when we first got her.

I know this is a hard subject to bring up without starting the
whole cruelty thread again so I'll state my opinion once and
won't defend it further: any method can be cruel for some
dogs.

Even the slightest punishment was wrong for Cubbe at the
beginning, but we've come a long way since then. She trusts
us now as I mentioned in a recent post. Point is, she's been
rewarded for coming, but she's never been punished, even in
the mildest way, for not coming.

Is it time for that?

What might I look for to tell?

Last night we had friends over for dinner with their 3
daughters ages 14, 10 and 7. The girls loved Cubbe and were
having a blast clicker training her. I was impressed with how
quickly they caught on and how little correction they needed
to be consistent with the clicks and treats. Cubbe was fine
with the children; she always has been. Just as they were
getting ready to go, the 10 year old went to give Cubbe a hug.
Cubbe must have felt threatened and confined because she gave a
snarl-snap.

I was right there, and without thinking I quickly yelled,
turned Cubbe over on her back, got in the face and let her
know that no snarling is allowed. The girl wasn't frightened
at all, and her parents who were also right there hadn't
realized what had happened. I then asked the snarlee to rub
Cubbe's belly further to reinforce that Cubbe is the
submissive one in that relationship. I let Cubbe up and all
was fine.

I suppose that's another issue, but I bring it up as part of
wondering if Cubbe should be trained with punishments now.
Like I said, I did that without thinking, and now I think it
was the right thing to do. So how do I apply this to dealing
with Cubbe the escapee?
--Lia ===================
"Julia Altshuler" <jaltshuler@attbi.com> wrote in message news:3DC4A3BD.645A4FC9@attbi.com...
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5 22nd February 10:12
stayawayfromhimbitchheismine
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


DON'T BE SSO CREEPY MEAN TO THE YOUNG LADY!!!!!!!!!!! JERK!!!


---
The secret george lucas doesn't want you to know!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.geocities.com/stayawayfromhimbitchheismine/starwars.htm
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6 22nd February 10:12
julia altshuler
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default OT: occasional post Cubbe and head shaking


The rest of us have this guy killfiled. Whatever you do, don't copy
over his whole message when you argue with him. Here's the canned post
on the subject.


This message is posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior (r.p.d.b.) regularly
and occasionally to other newsgroups including alt.animals.dog,
rec.pets.dogs.rescue, alt.pets.dog, and rec.pets.dogs.misc. These are
unmoderated groups meaning that no one checks the messages to make sure
they're
on-topic, civil or sensible before they go through.

The purpose of this occasional posting is to give information about the
newsgroup so that discussion about the newsgroup itself is cut down and
discussion about dogs increases.

Like so many usenet groups, this group has people who post annoyingly
and constantly, people who post angry and abusive messages, people who
post to irritate others. It's up to individuals to decide which posters
bother them.

Here are some guidelines that many people follow to make this newsgroup
pleasant and informative:

1. Use your killfile. A killfile (or filter) makes invisible posts by
any particular person or with any particular words in the subject line.
The posts are still there, but they don't show up on the screen of the
person using the killfile. Look at
http://www.hyphenologist.co.uk/killfile/killfilefaq.htm for
instructions. Or
try: http://www.graphixmad.plus.com/OE_FAQ_newsgroups.html.


2. Don't make more noise. The only thing more annoying than a troll is
an otherwise rational person arguing with or about a troll. That's
known as feeding the trolls. Please don't feed the trolls. It really
is insane to attempt rational discussion with the insane.

3. Want to exercise your right to free speech and argue about or with
trolls anyway? Put "ninnyboy" in the subject line. That way the people
who want to join the fracas can, and those who don't can opt out by
killfiling "ninnyboy." If you don't do this, expect to be killfiled
yourself. [Jerry], with the brackets is also a recognized signal.

4. Figured out that arguing with trolls is useless but still want to
talk about trolls by referring to them in the third person? Put
"ninnyboy" in the subject line then too. That subject is boring too.

5. Trim quoted posts to include only the part you're responding to.
Quoting an entire long post in order to respond to only a small piece of
it is annoying. Again, if you don't do this, expect to be killfiled.

6. Sometimes the group gets temporary trolls in addition to the
resident ones. Label those [eggplant].

7. Show no fear. Have a question or need to admit that you've made
errors in dog training in the past? This is still a good place to come
for (often contradictory) advice. Use your own judgment to decide what
advice to follow and what not to. No harm can come to you even if
people vehemently disagree, call you names or repost your old messages.

8. Label off-topic threads as "OT." A label helps people decide what
to read and what not to.

9. Check the F.A.Q. for answers to frequent non-complicated questions.

10. Don't post pictures. This is not a binary newsgroup. That's plain
text only, no HTML, no attachments. If you'd like, post a pointer to a
website with pictures on it.

11. Don't crosspost. It's bad enough when someone posts something dog
related to all the groups having to do with dogs. It's worse when
totally unrelated groups get tossed in the mix. Feel like you
absolutely have to jump in on something that's been crossposted to unrelated
groups? Erase the extraneous ones when you answer.
  Reply With Quote
7 23rd February 07:20
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


HOWEDY liea,

You mean, a economy vet.


Ethical vets don't board healthy dogs in clinics.

Yeah... you shoulda called first.


Right... forty miles is an investment.


HOWE abHOWET that.

So that means Cubbe's AFFLICTION is a OCD.


Well, you DID CAUSE her anxiety disorder.


Yeah. It's a obsessive compulsive disorder, like
professor lyin doc SCRUFF SHAKE dermer's little
dog Maxie The Magnificent FuriHOWESLY Obsessive Compulsive Masturbator.


Yeah. That's anxiHOWESNESS.


karen pryor killed her kat cause she couldn't train IT
not to crap in her stove top.


As a SUBTERFUGE to get HOWETA puttin
on your pronged spiked pinch choke collar.


On accHOWENT of YOU HURT HER.

She's got a nerveHOWES disorder from being abused, liea.


FEAR. That's HOWE COME she attacked your only
friend and them kids and the other dog, lia.


You SHOCK and CHOKE her, liea.


"I'd call the SHOCK fence effective and safe.
Humane is one of those hot words that people
can debate all day so I won't touch that one.
There are people who would call a regular chain
link fence inhumane," liea altshuller.


Here's Cubbe ATTACKING a neighbor's dog just
last week, and previHOWEsly attacking liea's only
friend and assaulting a couple kids and escaping
her surrHOWEND SHOCK SYSTEM, which MADE
HER AGGRESSIVE:

From: Julia Altshuler (jaltshuler@comcast.net)
Subject: Cubbe report: Chief
Date: 2003-09-12 21:04:11 PST

Chief if my neighbor Jo's 40# 1 1/2 year old Sheltie.
Jim has been running into them on his morning walks
with Cubbe. For a week he's been feeding me glowing
reports about how Cubbe is terrific with Chief.

Cubbe has never been particularly wonderful with any
other dog, so terrible in fact that I'd despaired at ever
seeing Cubbe frolic and play with other dogs.

I'd resigned myself to the idea that Cubbe is happy
with her people, her yard, her squirrels, her spot on
the couch, and that makes a pretty good life, one
that doesn't involve the companionship of her own
species. Jim's reports were encouraging.

Jim convinced Jo to bring Chief over for a playdate.
We put Cubbe on a leash so she could meet Chief
again on neutral territory. They sniffed as dogs
normally do.

Chief and Cubbe entered the front door. To my
amazement, all was fine. Out in the backyard
and off leash, Cubbe didn't pay much attention
to Chief, but there was no trouble even though
she and Chief were close to each other.

Both dogs seemed more interested that their
people were handing out treats (for good behaviors
like SITs).

Jim went into the house for some balls thinking the 2
dogs would like to chase them together. He did not
consult me about this hare brained scheme.

Jo and I were 5 feet away from the dogs when Cubbe
decided to attack Chief. She's not an experienced fighter
so I don't know if attack is the right word. She was snarfing,
making growly noises, jumping on Chief, had her mouth on
Chief's neck (on his back, behind his ears) and basically not
looking friendly, but I think if she'd wanted to do real damage,
she would have, and Chief was fine, nary a hair out of place.

Naturally with us all right there, we were able to intervene in
seconds.

A second later, it was all over. Cubbe looked like she'd
like to be friends again, but Chief, while not running away
or anything was obviously spooked and keeping his distance. Jo
and Chief went home. (I went with them for chat and
apologies, but that's not part of the Cubbe story.)

Cubbe has never food or toy guarded with people. Might
she have been guarding the balls Jim brought out? Or
was it the fact that we let our guard down for a few seconds
and she got scared of Chief when we all weren't practically
on top of her? Or did we push her too far by leaving her and
Chief together for too many minutes when a few seconds
would have been better for a first try? Or other theories?

Do we continue trying to find a dog that will put up with
Cubbe? Or do we give up again and go back to letting
Cubbe live a dogless existence?

--Lia

===================


"It Was Horrible! I Let Cubbe Out In The Backyard With
Her Usual ZAP Collar - The 10 Year Old Child Went To
Give Cubbe A Hug She Gave A Snarl-Snap Cubbe Got
Out In The Neighborhood Leashless From:

Julia F N Altshuler (d000634c@dc.seflin.org)
Subject: 1 step forward, 2 steps back
Date: 2001-01-07 19:28:05 PST

Cubbe got out in the neighborhood leashless for the first time
in roughly 2 years. The first few times were when we first got
her before she'd had any training and before we got the
electric fence to reinforce the physical one.

It was horrible. She paid us no attention, ignored clickers
and treats and calls. Make that, it was horrible for us. She
had a blast running free and chasing whatever she wanted. For
us it was 45 minutes of sheer terror as we tried to catch her.
Luckily there wasn't too much traffic yesterday morning. It
had snowed, and the streets weren't quite clear yet. Jim
finally caught her when she was preoccupied with her head down a
hole.

For 2 years I've been giving her a daily long walk in the
neighborhood. She now walks pretty nicely on a leash. She gets
daily indoor clicker training sessions. She has perfect
recalls in the house. She gets intermittent treats for those
recalls. She gets plenty of time to run free in the backyard.
Her recalls are less reliable there, but I've been working on
them. I haven't been as good about introducing the variable
reinforcement there, but I have been good about making sure
that she's never tricked into coming into the house when she'd
rather be outside. I always call her, give her a treat or
praise and let her go again.

So I haven't been a perfect dog trainer, but I don't think I'm
a terrible one. I say that because I'm about to ask y'all for
some help in correcting my mistakes, and while I don't mind
criticism for past mistakes, I am hoping you'll concentrate on
what I should do now.

Yesterday morning Cubbe had had some nice backyard time. I'd
gotten her into the house and was preparing to leave when she
escaped straight through the front door and right in front of
our noses. She was still wearing the zap collar, but the
battery was low. She gave a small yip when she went over the
wire, and the chase ensued.

We were careful not to scold her once she was caught.

Today I let her out in the backyard with her usual zap collar
now with a fresh battery. She was waiting by the backdoor to
come in when I went to call her. From her excited behavior, I
could tell that she fully expected to be let out the front
door again so she could have another fun romp in the
neighborhood. I'm so filled with anxiety from yesterday's
escapade that I keep checking for her every time I open the
door.

Later in the afternoon, she was much worse
about coming when called even from the backyard.

My specific questions:

How do I teach recalls when she so clearly knows
when she's in a confined space and when she isn't?

She normally only wears the zap collar when she's in the
backyard because the wire goes around the house and could zap her
when she's near certain windows inside. If I let her get
zapped at the front door with the zap collar, can I still take
the zap collar off and walk her out the front door with her
leash on? I don't want her to become afraid of the front door.

What's the best emergency procedure if, god forbid, it should
happen again?

Might Cubbe be ready for harsher training techniques? By this
I mean, I've been using clicker and treats for Cubbe because
she so obviously freaked when we used leash corrections and
scoldings when we first got her.

I know this is a hard subject to bring up without starting the
whole cruelty thread again so I'll state my opinion once and
won't defend it further: any method can be cruel for some
dogs.

Even the slightest punishment was wrong for Cubbe at the
beginning, but we've come a long way since then. She trusts
us now as I mentioned in a recent post. Point is, she's been
rewarded for coming, but she's never been punished, even in
the mildest way, for not coming.

Is it time for that?

What might I look for to tell?

Last night we had friends over for dinner with their 3
daughters ages 14, 10 and 7. The girls loved Cubbe and were
having a blast clicker training her. I was impressed with how
quickly they caught on and how little correction they needed
to be consistent with the clicks and treats. Cubbe was fine
with the children; she always has been. Just as they were
getting ready to go, the 10 year old went to give Cubbe a hug.
Cubbe must have felt threatened and confined because she gave a
snarl-snap.

I was right there, and without thinking I quickly yelled,
turned Cubbe over on her back, got in the face and let her
know that no snarling is allowed. The girl wasn't frightened
at all, and her parents who were also right there hadn't
realized what had happened. I then asked the snarlee to rub
Cubbe's belly further to reinforce that Cubbe is the
submissive one in that relationship. I let Cubbe up and all
was fine.

I suppose that's another issue, but I bring it up as part of
wondering if Cubbe should be trained with punishments now.
Like I said, I did that without thinking, and now I think it
was the right thing to do. So how do I apply this to dealing
with Cubbe the escapee?
--Lia ===================
"Julia Altshuler" <jaltshuler@attbi.com> wrote in message news:3DC4A3BD.645A4FC9@attbi.com...
  Reply With Quote
8 23rd February 15:09
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


Dogs GET yeast infections from STRESS.


Stiglitz
  Reply With Quote
9 23rd February 15:09
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


AS STATED:

compromised

aren't very

can't get

smells,
  Reply With Quote
10 23rd February 15:10
the puppy wizard
External User
 
Posts: 1
Default Cubbe and head shaking


It's caused by HURTING HER on your pronged spiked
pinch choke collar and shocking her.
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