Scary training website...

HOWEDY robin,

He sHOWENDS like most of HOWER dog lovers
here abHOWETS who HURT and KILL dogs and
LIE abHOWET it.

Only difference is, he ain't lying and denyin his
own words like you and your lying dog abusing
punk thug coward mentally ill pals do here.

Scary, ain't it.

Well, that's true. You cannot effectively
train a dog using bribes and avoidance.

Nor can you effectively train a dog usin force pain and intimidation.

Havin read every thing on his site he doesn't
detail HOWE he HURTS dog to train them,
only that he trains them using corrections
and mastery and excuses for hurting dogs
when he needs to hurt a dog to be HUMANE,
like it sez in your koehler book.

cc: richlingk9@myway.com

The Puppy Wizard doesn't even gotta TRY
to DISCREDIT you bums, you do it yourself!

Chris Williams writes:

"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual
I do find valuable. Much of it I recognize as what
I've always done without thinking of it as "training".
New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased
the last of Mac's fireworks trauma,"

==============================

From: Chris Williams (k9apple@webtv.net)
Subject: Re: Thank you Jerry Howe
Date: 2002-03-26 08:16:19 PST

Engrossing account, Anthony. Our best to Angel
and your family.

A friend, who socializes the kittens I've taken
from a feral cat colony, is using the DDR.

She reports far fewer panic problems than
she's had before. ============================
From: "Regina Guerrero" <>
To: <jhowe2@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Thank You!

==================

Subj: Fear of Thunder
Date: 6/29/02 6:07:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Jraltman
To: Witsenddog

Dear Jerry,

I hope you'll be able to post this message so more
people who are at their wit's end will be able to help
their dogs.

To review:

Our puppy was uncomfortable during thunder storms.
At the beginning of the problem, she paced restlessly
from room to room. She couldn't settle and sleep.

From there the problem grew. She would run to the far
southeast corner of the house (which makes sense
because most storms here come from the northwest)
and she'd cower in the corner of the couch and shake.

!st attempt to help her:

I'd pick her up, brush and massage her (call me a nut -
I've sung to her when I've done her daily brushing since
she was tiny so of course I sang too) and when she
relaxed, I'd put her in her crate. She then slept and I
thought the problem was solved.

Traumatic event:

We were out in the park playing with one of her doggy
friends when it began to rain. On the way home, there
was the loudest, longest, thunder clap I've ever heard.

From that day on, the problem got worse and worse.
I couldn't calm her with singing and massage. The fear
spread. She wouldn't go out if it was raining. No thunder,
just gently summer rain, and she wouldn't go out.

The solution:

I surfed the net and came across a free manual Wit's
End Dog Training Method and a product called Doggy
Do Right that seemed better than anything else I came
across.

A phone call to Jerry Howe, author of the manual and
Director of Research, Biosound Scientific, convince me
to try both the manual and the product.

Problem solved:

I followed Jerry's suggestions (more phone calls - he is
most generous with his time and advice). The first two
thunder storms my puppy was restless but not running
around in a blind panic.

The third storm, she barked her deep, stranger danger
bark after each clap of thunder. The fourth storm, she
seemed uneasy at first. Soon she was asleep at my
feet and she napped through the rest of the storm.

A miracle. I am endlessly grateful to Jerry
for his manual and his machine.

A word about Doggy Do Right. It is odd to buy a
machine that emits a sound I cannot hear. I took
the chance because Jerry offered a full refund
including shipping.

Though I heard nothing, my puppy clearly did. When
I first turned on the machine, she got the cutest, most
quizzical look on her face. She looked at me as if to
say: "What's that? I never heard that before."

She looks at the machine when it is on. She rests on the floor
beneath it. It is obvious from her behavior that she is aware
of its cycles.

Amazing.

Thank you Jerry. =============
"Anthony Testa" <testa52601@aol.com> wrote in message news:c603fe9c.0203260607.77c283ce@posting.google.c om...

news:<lmWo8AeR1HVP092yn@panix.com>...

=====================

My student Anthony summed it all up:
"Alpha" <sweeney1@bigpond.com> wrote in message news:bsf69.5447$g9.19553@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...

"misty" <Momisty@webtv.net> wrote in message news:16990-3CAB1F8C-1@storefull-2293.public.lawson.webtv.net...

"misty" <Momisty@webtv.net> wrote in message news:6946-3B6337A1-329@storefull-233.iap.bryant.webtv.ne

"misty" <Momisty@webtv.net> wrote in message news:1199-3BD34D6A-229@storefull-235.iap.bryant.webtv.net...

============================== <"Terri"@cyberhighway

Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since
I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough
of the manual and it's counterparts by John Fisher and the
posts of Marylin Rammell to believe and use it. This naive
child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marylin
for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile
crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers.

The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging
idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe
we would not have had to hold the head of a really
magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the
needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped
his last gasp.

To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into
good behavior. Naive is believing that people that hide
behind fake names are more honest than people that use
their real names. Naive is thinking that dilettante dog
breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY,
j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and
lived by their craft for decades.

"Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten
level insults for what they are. Really stupid is believing
that people like Jerry Howe and Marylin Rammell are going to
just go away because you people act like fools. Why do you
act like fools? I really have no idea, and I don't really care.

I think I'm going to get one myself for Father's day and take
it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing. You
would never believe the results, so you'll never know.

I don't see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering
Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh?
As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei.".......right.

Yes it was, and that is sad.

Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to
the box first?)

Hello People,

Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and
hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a
long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry
came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard
way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is
just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and
KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

----------------------------------------------

HOWEDY matty,

You mean, dogs that are DYIN of stress induced seizures?

You're a liar and dog abuser and mental case, matty:
"Rocky" <2dogs@rocky-dog.com> wrote in message news:Xns92FEEC097E4AAaustralianshepherdca@130.133. 1.4...

Can you tell the truth from a lie?:

And then we got, matty! Follow his discussion!
This is what's called, a liar and dog abuser:

"Just Want To Second Jerry's Method For
Dealing With This (Destructive Separation
Anxiety). I've Suggested It To Quite A Few
Clients Now And It's Worked 'EVERY TIME
The Very First Time' - marilyn, Trainer, 33
Years Experience.

You DO remember KILLFILING MARILYN for
her coment above regarding her success with
The Puppy Wizard's Surrogate Toy Separation
Anxiety / Bed Time Calming / Submissive
Urination Technique (STSA/BTC/SUT)?

Perhaps you likeWIZE recall a pediatrician, Dr. Z,
who commented that his bed time calming technique was quite similar?

"His Amazing Progress Almost Makes Me Cry.
Your Method Takes Positive Training To The
Next Level And Should Really Be Used By All
Trainers Who Call Themselves Trainers. Thank
You For Helping Me Save His Life," Kay Pierce,
Professional Trainer, 30 Years Experience.

BWWWWEAAAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

You think matty's playin with a full goddamned deck?

captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK"
Makes A ResoundingSound Distraction: "When
You Chuck The Dog The Sound Will Travel Up
The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping
Sound To The Dog."

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it.
When he barks, use the line for a correction.

- if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar.
Lynn K.

"An indelible impression can sometimes be made
by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration,
then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you
can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish
him again for the same thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment.

It will be better for your dog, as well as the house,
if you really pour it on him," wm koehler.

That's INSANE. Ain't it. So's this, here's
professor SCRUFF SHAKE:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works."

That's HOWE COME your dog has OCD behaviors
and is deathly ill from The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROME.

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

Here's lyingdogDUMMY BEATIN a dog to
HOWEsbreak IT. But FIRST, a little good
KOEHLER trainin:

Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider.

"If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will continue to
mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be
made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then
leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you can come back at
twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.)

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light
spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate
punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the
house, if you really pour it on him."

"Housebreaking Problems:

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training"
Howell Book House, 1996"

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve
himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the
opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment.
Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so
he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place
of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he
associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by
spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is
better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do not
rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you
are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will
not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling.
To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an
error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking
apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then
backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this
group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog
protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the
middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in
a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly
reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable
in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and
it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently
to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not
worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe
enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they're winning
and will continue to mess in the house.

An indelible impression can sometimes be made
by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration,
then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you
can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish
him again for the same thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment.

It will be better for your dog, as well as the house,
if you really pour it on him. "Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:a236iv0ngp58gv9jmi818kbmk928rjcokq@4ax.com...

"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:spb3ivgh7prvq9omhka0bcif0tfknv6oop@4ax.com...

<robinjn@mchsi.com> whittled these words:

HOWEDY People,

captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK"
Makes A ResoundingSound Distraction: "When
You Chuck The Dog The Sound Will Travel Up
The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping
Sound To The Dog."

We got liars, dog abusers and CERTIFIED INCURABLE
LONG TERM MENTAL CASES tellin us that choppin tails
off of puppies withHOWET anesthesia, shocking and jerking
and choking dogs on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
DOESN'T HURT...

You want MOORE of the same?
"Gwen Watson" <gwen@ig.utexas.edu> wrote in message news:4029382C.F4768A9@ig.utexas.edu...

The Puppy Wizard has enjoyed humiliating
and debunking HOWER so called EXXXPERTS
so much HE figgers you'll likeWIZE enjoy the
comedy of death terror and error. The Puppy
Wizard calls this phase of dog trainin ATTRITIION
for past crimes against man, dog, and humanity:

"A CHIN CHUCK" Makes A Resounding
Sound Distraction: "When You Chuck The
Dog The Sound Will Travel Up The Mandible
To The Ears And Give A Popping Sound To
The Dog," captain arthur haggerty.

"Puppy Problems Prevented"
CanineHealthOnline.org. - JERRYIZED

HOWEDY People,

This is the typical bullshit you're gonna find from your
expert veterinary behaviorists and expert dog trainers:

"Question:
I have a 4 month old Great Dane female puppy
who has the habit of biting and catching the lead
in her mouth to shake it in a playful manner when
we walk. I am planning to show her in conformation
and need to break this habit. I rubbed Bitter Apple
on the lead but to no avail. I am using Tabasco pepper
sauce now but it is only partially effective. I try telling
her "leave it" and pulling it downward. Any help you
can give me would be appreciated. "

The world faMOUSE cap'n arthur haggerty replies:

"This is not a difficult problem to solve but"

But our expert can't teach us HOWE to do that
without HURTIN the dog...

" it is very difficult to explain because"

Because he has NO method, only fear force confrontation
intimidation pain and aversives.

" of the many variations and nuances involved in doing so. "

IOW the lying dog abusing Thug needs to couch his words
carefully cause he can only tell us to HURT our dogs, PEOPLE!

" Your use of Bitter Apple and Tabasco sauce is not a bad
move"

That'll endear the dog to working with the handler on lead,
and establish trust love and confidence.

" and I would continue to use it."

First use aversives, and if that don't work, HURT THE DOG to
be fair... cause THAT'S ALL our dog lovers know HOWE to do.

Should take a few minutes to train this dog not to do that...
without hurtin him.

" One correction that can be used is chucking the dog under
the chin when she is biting on the leash. "

Kindly enough advice. When done correctly according to
koehler, our good captain's teacher, the dog will not realize
you are the only one with hands standin there.

" Let me briefly explain the chucking technique."

EXCELLENT! Our dog lovers here don't like to give detailed
advice, so's they don't unintentionally mislead nobody noHOWE.

" Cup your hand so that your thumb and forefinger create a
circle."

Kinda like our professor lying doc scruff shake dermer does
when he relaxes on his couch?

" Your hand comes from the bottom up to the lower portion of
the mandible so the Dane doesn't see it at all. "

Right. Although big enough to take your hand off at the
shoulder, they're big stupid dogs and won't realize it's YOU
who just slapped him in the mouth, and will not even know
you're his tormentor.

" When you chuck the dog the sound will travel up the mandible
to the ears and give a popping sound to the dog. "

AHHH YES! Sound Distraction as taught by the good capn!

" Use a verbal correction at the same time. "

You mean like offering to make a deal?

" Do it as many times as it takes to get the dog to stop. "

I've seen Danes not stop, not for over a year till the dog
was too dangerous to do anything with...except by me.

" You will not be able to deliver that correction every time
so "

So that means the variable reinforcement will negate the
method, antagonize the dog, and exacerbate the anxiety which
is causing the dog to mouth and chew on the lead to defend
himself from being jerked and choked on his pronged spiked
pinch choke collar that is necessary for these monster sized
dogs which I grew up with training serious behavior problems
without hurting them, cause the loser DIES... when you fight
with a dog that's too big to intimidate and hurt enough to
make IT respect your Godlike AUTHORITY.

" supplement it with a collar correction. "

A jerk and choke will teach the dog you are in control... and
the guy in control is the bum who's slappin him around and
jerking and choking him for objecting to being jerked and
choked in the first place, PEOPLE.

" An obedience foundation will certainly help. "

AS STATED.

" Now this is the fastest and longest lasting approach in
solving the problem. "

That so, capn? You're a liar and a dog abuser and got to get
exposed to the akc and run outta business, good buddy. We'll
be seeing a lot of each other in the very near future. This
town ain't big enough for the both of us, cap'n... I'm worldwide.
Get outta Doge. Jerry Howe, The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >

==================

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.

Psychoclown wrote:

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something
you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro
manure."

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says:

"I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit
of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the
article (SHE'D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON'T READ IT!),
there is NO mention in it of twisting ears (INDEED, SHE
PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES).

I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO
BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM).

I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE'S A
PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to
ADMIT THE TRUTH???).

I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where
slapping a dog is anything but destructive."

RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists... and chin cuff doesn't
mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama....

amy lyingfrosty dahl continues:

"Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable
dogs may require you to progress to striking them more
sharply.

REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of
as force-fetching: the ear pinch.

Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.

but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch
the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth,
get out the shotshell.

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the
collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the
dog will give in

With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.'

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick.

Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy.
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb; Say 'fetch' while pressing the dummy against its lips
and pinching its ear."

Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis.

We're gonna teach folks THAT AIN'T NORMAL

That's HOWE COME HOWER DOG LOVERS can't
post here abHOWETS noMOORE.
The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available
in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.

Here's lyingdogDUMMY aka jack morrison aka
joey finnochiario aka tommy soronson of soronson's
retriever kennels, MO, USA BEATING A DOG to
HOWEsbreak IT: "Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:a236iv0ngp58gv9jmi818kbmk928rjcokq@4ax.com...

"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:spb3ivgh7prvq9omhka0bcif0tfknv6oop@4ax.com...

<robinjn@mchsi.com> whittled these words:

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training (1962). New York:
Howell Book Book House(p. 52-53)."

Hanging

"First, the trainer makes certain that the collar
and leash are more than adequate for any jerk
or strain that the dog's most frantic actions could
cause. Then he starts to work the dog deliberately
and fairly to the point where the dog makes his grab.

Before the teeth have reached their target,
the dog, weight permitting, is jerked from
the ground.

As in coping with some of the afore-mentioned
problems the dog is suspended in mid-air.

However, to let the biting dog recover
his footing while he still had the strength
to renew the attack would be cruelty.

The only justifiable course is to hold him
suspended until he has neither the strength
nor inclination to renew the fight.

When finally it is obvious that he is
physically incapable of expressing his
resentment and is lowered to the ground,
he will probably stagger loop-legged for a
few steps, vomit once or twice, and roll
over on his side.

The sight of a dog lying, thick-tongued,
on his side, is not pleasant, but do not
let it alarm you

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.

HOWEDY Master Of Deception blankman,

<easily.amused@gtenospam.net> whittled these words:

You mean Vs not being able to train a
dog AT ALL usin ANYTHING???

"Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem
Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A
Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens,
But You'll Get Over It."mike duforth, author: "Courteous Canine."

"I Dropped The Leash, Threw My Right Arm
Over The Lab's Shoulder, Grabbed Her Opposite
Foot With My Left Hand, Rolled Her On Her Side,
Leaned On Her, Smartly Growled Into Her Throat
And Said "GRRRR!" And Neatly Nipped Her Ear," sionnach.

Like you did with yours? Let's discuss heelin?
Or HOWE abHOWET herding? Or HOWE
abHOWET excessive barkin and escapin your
yard?

"Well, Jack Did Hit My Dog. Actually I'd Call It
A Sharp Tap Of The Crook To The Nose. I Know
Jack Wouldn't HaveDone It If He Thought Solo
Couldn't Take It. I Still Crate Him Because
Otherwise I Fear He Might Eat My Cat," melanie.

"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch
Right, Either They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They
Have A Very Stoic Dog. Some Dogs Will Collapse
Into A Heap. About The Ear Pinch: You Must Keep
The Pressure Up," sindy "don't let the dog SCREAM"
mooreon, author of HOWER FAQ's pages on k9 web.

You think HURTING a HUNTING DOG to
MAKE IT HUNT is NECESSARY???

You mean like FETCH?:

"Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a
helper wield the stick, or do it yourself.
Tougher, less tractable dogs may require
you to progress to striking them more
sharply," lying frosty dahl, ethical breeder,
expert trainer, discoverer of cannibalism
in Labradors.

You think a EXXXPERT trainer got to BEAT
a HUNTIN dog to MAKE IT HUNT?

"Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And
Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump
With A Riding Crop," lying frosty dahl,
discoverer of CANNIBALISM in Labradors.

Perhaps the mom dog didn't want her babies
HURT all their lives like HOWE HOWER dog
lovers PREFER to HURT THEIR DOGS?

"John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and
gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the
rump with a training stick while holding him partially
off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back
to the line and cast him back to the dummies."

The Puppy Wizard sez a mom dog eatin her babies
to SAVE THEM from a fate like that, is COMMENDABLE.

We're gonna teach folks THAT AIN'T NORMAL...

Perhaps you'd like to discuss Martin's methods
with Martin, Master Of Deception blankman?

You beat your dog in the face with your shepherd's
crook and shock and jerk and choke them on pronged
spiked pinch choke collars and spray aversives in
their faces and lock them in boxes cause you can't
trust them not to ESCAPE.

Seems Martin is a mite shy...

You're a mental case a liar and dog abuser.

--- On Thu 02/26, The Puppy Wizard <
From: The Puppy Wizard [mailto: ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.Net]
To: richlingk9@myway.com
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 14:54:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Scary training website...

----- Original Message -----
From: Martin
To: ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.Net
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: Scary training website...

The Puppy Wizard trains people all over the Whole
Wild World to train their dogs to perfection nearly
instantly, for free, from settin right here, stark ravin nekkid.

The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End
Dog Training Method Manual Student's REPORTS
from all over the Whole Wild World PROVE IT, Martin.

The Puppy Wizard wasn't criticizing your website,
there wasn't enough information to sink HIS teeth
into. The Puppy Wizard isn't interested in REPRESSING
INFORMATION. If you think you'd like an honest
discussion, The Puppy Wizard is eager to talk business
on HIS pubic forum.

The Puppy Wizard was only informing you that
your site and philosophy is being discussed on
The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End
Dog Training Method Forum: rec.pets.dogs.behavior.

IN FACT, The Puppy Wizard was DEFENDING you:

"Only difference is, he ain't lying and denyin his
own words like you and your lying dog abusing
punk thug coward mentally ill pals do here."

You're welcome to join the discussion and
defend your methods. Perhaps The Puppy
Wizard will teach you HOWE to train dogs
NEARLY INSTANTLY withHOWET HURTIN
them.

Martin Richling
President / Master Dog Trainer
Richling K-9 Training, Inc.
richlingk9@myway.com
"Where Dogs Are Trained Correctly" Yours,
The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >

--- On Thu 02/26, The Puppy Wizard < ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.Net

From: The Puppy Wizard [mailto: ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.Net]
To: richlingk9@myway.com
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 09:14:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Scary training website...

HOWEDY robin,

"Robin Nuttall" wrote in message news:Nep%b.24994$AL.465048@attbi_s03...

He sHOWENDS like most of HOWER dog lovers
here abHOWETS who HURT and KILL dogs and
LIE abHOWET it.

Only difference is, he ain't lying and denyin his
own words like you and your lying dog abusing
punk thug coward mentally ill pals do here.

Scary, ain't it.

Well, that's true. You cannot effectively
train a dog using bribes and avoidance.

Nor can you effectively train a dog usin force pain and intimidation.

Havin read every thing on his site he doesn't
detail HOWE he HURTS dog to train them ,
only that he trains them using corrections
and mastery and excuses for hurting dogs
when he needs to hurt a dog to be HUMANE,
like it sez in your koehler book.

cc: richlingk9@myway.com

The Puppy Wizard doesn't even gotta TRY
to DISCREDIT you bums, you do it yourself!

Chris Williams writes:

"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual
I do find valuable. Much of it I recognize as what
I've always done without thinking of it as "training".
New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased
the last of Mac's fireworks trauma,"

==============================

From: Chris Williams (k9apple@webtv.net)
Subject: Re: Thank you Jerry Howe
Date: 2002-03-26 08:16:19 PST

Engrossing account, Anthony. Our best to Angel
and your family.

A friend, who socializes the kittens I've taken
from a feral cat colony, is using the DDR.

She reports far fewer panic problems than
she's had before. ============================
From: "Regina Guerrero" <>
To:
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:42 AM Subject: Thank You!

==================

Subj: Fear of Thunder
Date: 6/29/02 6:07:13 PM Eastern Daylight Tim e
From: Jraltman
To: Witsenddog

Dear Jerry,

I hope you'll be able to post this message so more
people who are at their wit's end will be able to help
their dogs.

To review:

Our puppy was uncomfortable during thunder storms.
At the beginning of the problem, she paced restlessly
from room to room. She couldn't settle and sleep.

From there the problem grew. She would run to the far
southeast corner of the house (which makes sense
because most storms here come from the northwest)
and she'd cower in the corner of the couch and shake.

!st attempt to help her:

I'd pick her up, brush and massage her (call me a nut -
I've sung to her when I've done her daily brushing since
she was tiny so of course I sang too) and when she
relaxed, I'd put her in her crate. She then slept and I
thought the problem was solved.

Traumatic event:

We were out in the park playing with one of her doggy
friends when it began to rain. On the way home, there
was the loudest, longest, thunder clap I've ever heard.

From that day on, the problem got worse and worse.
I couldn't calm her with singing and massage. The fear
spread. She wouldn't go out if it was raining. No thunder,
just gently summer rain, and she wouldn't go out.

The solution:

I surfed the net and came across a free manual Wit's
End Dog Training Method and a product called Doggy
Do Right that seemed better than anything else I came
across.

A phone call to Jerry Howe, author of the manual and
Director of Research, Biosound Scientific, convince me
to try both the manual and the product.

Problem solved:

I followed Jerry's suggestions (more phone calls - he is
most generous with his time and advice). The first two
thunder storms my puppy was restless but not running
around in a blind panic.

The third storm, she barked her deep, stranger danger
bark after each clap of thunder. The fourth storm, she
seemed uneasy a t first. Soon she was asleep at my
feet and she napped through the rest of the storm.

A miracle. I am endlessly grateful to Jerry
for his manual and his machine.

A word about Doggy Do Right. It is odd to buy a
machine that emits a sound I cannot hear. I took
the chance because Jerry offered a full refund
including shipping.

Though I heard nothing, my puppy clearly did. When
I first turned on the machine, she got the cutest, most
quizzical look on her face. She looked at me as if to
say: "What's that? I never heard that before."

She looks at the machine when it is on. She rests on the floor
beneath it. It is obvious from her behavior that she is aware
of its cycles.

Amazing.

Thank you Jerry.

=============

"Anthony Testa" wrote in message news:c603fe9c.0203260607.77c283ce@posting.google.c om...

=====================

My student Anthony summed it all up:

"Alpha" wrote in message news:bsf69.5447$g9.19553@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...

======================

"misty" wrote in message news:16990-3CAB1F8C-1@storefull-2293.public. lawson.webtv.net...

=====================

"misty" wrote in message news:6946-3B6337A1-329@storefull-233.iap.bryant.webtv.ne

============

"misty" wrote in message news:1199-3BD34D6A-229@storefull-235.iap.bryant.webtv.net...

============================== <"Terri"@cyberhighway

Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since
I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough
of the manual and it's counterparts by John Fisher and the
posts of Marylin Rammell to believe and use it. This naive
child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marylin
for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile
crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers.

The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging
idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe
we would not have had to hold the head of a really
magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the
needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped
his last gasp.

To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terro rize a dog into
good behavior. Naive is believing that people that hide
behind fake names are more honest than people that use
their real names. Naive is thinking that dilettante dog
breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY,
j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and
lived by their craft for decades.

"Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten
level insults for what they are. Really stupid is believing
that people like Jerry Howe and Marylin Rammell are going to
just go away because you people act like fools. Why do you
act like fools? I really have no idea, and I don't really
care.

I think I'm going to get one myself for Father's day and take
it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing. You
would never believe the results, so you'll never know.

I don't see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering
Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh?
As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei.".......right.

Yes it was, and that is sad.

Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to
the box first?)

Hello People,

Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and
hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a
long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry
came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard
way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is
just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and
KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

----------------------------------------------

You mean like this, gwen honey?: http://dogtv.com/4LANE3.rm

You're a dog abuser and a mental case, gwen honey.

----- Original Message ----- From: "N"
To: "The Puppy Wizard" <ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.Net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: Hi Jerry

HOWEDY N,

Indeed. Over the years my information
and consistency have become more
inflexible thanks to the constant challenges
especially from the more learned university
trained behaviorists.

The ng's have been a wonderful learning
experience for me. Have you read "Misbehavior
Of Organism's" by Breeland and Breeland?

Nothing makes for better business than
tough competition. And giving it up for
FREE is a special reward. Perhaps that
only caters to my own vindictive nature?

Yours, Jerry.

New Law Of Physics

HOWEDY People,

"The amount of misery and difficulty a dog abuser has from
their dogs is directly proportionate to the number of times
they've WARNED people to KILLFILE Jerry and not study
your FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method manual..."

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior Never
Change, Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Would Not Obtain
Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results For All
Handler's And All Dogs, As Taught In Your FREE Copy Of The
Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual."
The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

Here's Disciple Paulie:

Disciple Paulie Sez: "No One Understands How Wits End
Training Really Works, They Assume It's All Nicey Nicey And
don't Realise It's A Very Disciplined Method That Deals With
Any Situation And The Foundation Is Built On Trust And
Understanding."

Disciple Paulie Writes:

I've never forced my dogs to do anything, I tell them they are
good dogs and they seem to follow me, once I told them they
were bad dogs and they ran away from me, now I only ever tell
them they are good dogs and they always are, always.

Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say "good dog"
sincerely at the end of the request and I bet you'll find your
dog thinking then responding everytime.

A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies
to every aspect of the relationship with your dog.

Obedience and affection are not related, if they were
everyone would have obedient dogs.

Paul.

========================

----- Original Message -----
From: <BNTDOBES@aol.com>
To: <jhowe2@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: Wits end Training

----- Original Message -----
From: <BNTDOBES@aol.com>
To: <jhowe2@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 7:54 PM Subject: Making Progress

"Nevyn" <greatdane@badmama.com.au> wrote in message
news:1061695905.896739@grimiore.conceptual.net.au. ..

HOWEDY Group,

Here some SUCCESS STORIES ive had using JERRY'S MANUAL

1) My dogz, two bitches - Vicious, barking, aggressive, pulled
on leash, wanted to kill any dogs they saw, fought between
each other. TWO WEEKS using Jerry's manual, they were calm,
friends, my companions.

2) ADDED A BEAGLE PUPPY (male) to my "PACK", the
girls had -NO PROBLEMS- with him from the moment I
dropped him by their noses.

3) My FRIENDS dogs 2 MALES barking and jumping
at the fence all night 3 DAYS TRAINING WITH JERRY'S
MANUAL they were CALMED AND HAVEN'T BARKED ONCE!

Added a NEW MALE DOG (2 yrs old) AND
WELCOMED HIM WITH NO WUCKAS !

4) POODLE that ATE food from the KITCHEN BENCH -
lock him in a box? NO! USE JERRYS MANUAL! 4 DAYS
AND HES NEVER DONE IT SINCE!

5) ABUSED DOGS AT THE SHELTER I WORK AT -
HAD TO BE FED WITH A BUCKET ON A STICK -
ONE WEEK ON JERRYS MANUAL, THE SUPERVISOR
TOLD ME TO PUT THEM IN THE PUBLIC KENNELS
FOR SALE !

Quite amazing to - I thought they were just dull coloured
dogs, but after I had removed the fear and anxiety their
hairs coloured up amazingly.

6) STAFFY FEMALE who would NOT DROP HER
BALL! She carried it around all day and night - 3
DAYS on jerrys MANUAL and she now DROPS
it when u ASK her to!

BWHWHAHAHAHAAHA !!!!

Nevyn

----- Original Message -----
From: Eric
To: ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.Net
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 7:54 AM
Subject: just checking in..

Jerry!

You helped me with my pal Dundee about a year ago
regarding submissive peeing. Just wanted to let you
know he's doing great- he was "cured" in about 2 days
using your techniques!

He has since become the "smartest dog in the world"!
Once I stopped thinking like a human and got inside his
head, I can teach him ANYTHING, usually in a matter
of minutes. Makes me look like an expert dog-trainer.

I rescued two strays last week, cleaned 'em up, wormed
'em, and am getting them their shots. Time to get inside
their heads and teach them to teach themselves how to
be good dogs!

Instead of feeling like "training" is a chore, I look forward
to working with these guys a couple times a day...

Although I don't follow your instructions "to a T", I learned
from you to "think like a dog" and stimulate their brain rather
than beating ass or pinching, or any of that nonsense.

I know damn well I would NOT be loyal to someone who
beat MY ass lol!

Well, just wanted to thank you for rattling the bushes
out there and teaching folks the RIGHT way to "train" dogs.

A horseman friend of mine uses very similar techniques in
training his horses- he calls it "natural horsemanship". He
is hated by nearly all the local "trainers" yet somehow he
repeatedly wins at every show he attends. He rarely shows
any more, but goes now and then to rub their noses in it
(pun intended)... Too cool....

Have a great holiday season and keep up the good work!

Eric , Dundee, Sammy, and Maynard

==========================

Nevyn writes:

Jerry I cannot even begin to tell you the success Ive had with
your training manual! My two mutts have gone from out-of-control
psychos to obedient well behaved companions within
a matter of weeks! AND My friends have seen the success
and have asked me to work on their dogs!

I was working with a 5 month old Ridgeback female today and
she was being an angel after like an hour of working with her!

it is AMAZING!!

I pity those fools who take their dogs to classes where the
"Trainers" abuse their dogs! (do they have a degree? A
masters? a Phd? by the way? NO they are average joes
off the street who think they know how to train dogs!)

Once again, Jerry, you are a genius!

NEVYN and my Dogs, Rizzo and Midget, My Grandparents
dogs, Dusty and Snoopy, and my friends pup, Jazz.

================

Never give out your password or credit card number in an
instant message conversation.

Nevyn says:
hello Jerry.

Jerry says:
HOWEDY Nevyn

Nevyn says:
How are you?

Jerry says:
sup?

Nevyn says:
Oh nothing

Nevyn says:

My dogs are alot better now!

Jerry says:
fine

Jerry says:
tell me

Nevyn says:
I can walk them on or off the leash and they don't
give a #@% about other dogs

Jerry says:
naah

Nevyn says:
I can let them inside and they wont eat the cats

Jerry says:
naah

Nevyn says:
Yup

Jerry says:
what did you do, buy a shock collar?

Nevyn says:
No

Nevyn says:
Praised them

Jerry says:
ahh!

Jerry says:
you think they're 100% better

Nevyn says:
'cept they still bark at the neighbour but only coz he swears
at them and pours water on them

Nevyn says:
nahh they still have stinky breath!

Nevyn says:
muahaha

Jerry says:
ok

Jerry says:
I'll go for that

Jerry says:
it'll take a couple more days to break the neighbor thing if
you're consistent

Jerry says:
then he won't swear and throw water at them

Nevyn says:
yeah but he's only out on the weekends

Jerry says:
but they'll still have stinky breath

Nevyn says:
muahahaha

Jerry says:
you gonna write the group and tell them they're
suckin hind teat?

Nevyn says:
eh

Nevyn says:
nah

Nevyn says:
cant

Nevyn says:
my news server isn't workin

Nevyn says:
how about u just screenshot or copy this chat and post it

Jerry says:
why not.

Nevyn says:
sorry been tryin all day to get on the news server

Jerry says:
you got anything you'd like to tell the dog lovers who
would prefer to see you choke and shock and lock
your dogs in a box?

Jerry says:
I guess you don't want to tell them nuthin that they
don't already know, huh?

Nevyn says:
hah

Nevyn says:
tell them they're fuckers who need to die

Nevyn says:
dogs aren't for abusing they are for loving they love so much

Jerry says:
that's HOWE COME they got me now

Jerry says:
howe much training time did it take for the two of 'em?

Nevyn says:
pfftt

Nevyn says:
it didn't even seem like training

Nevyn says:
its been 24 days since I got your manual

Jerry says:
pfffttt!!!!

Jerry says:
hhahahahaha

Jerry says:
have you got that feeling that they're in tune with
EVERYTHING you're wanting them to do?

Jerry says:
I forgot what city you're in.

Jerry says:
maybe if you're near alphalpha sweeny you can
swing by and LAUGH your ass off at him growling
at his dogs???

Jerry says:
BWWWHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

Nevyn says:
LOL

Nevyn says:
I'm in Perth, Australia!

Nevyn says:
and yes they do seem to be in tune

=====================

Nevyn says:
oh!! the other day my dogs went into submissive
position when a tiny little toy poodle came up
barking at them! !LOL

Jerry says:
EXCELLENT!

Nevyn says:
lol

Jerry says:
they knew they didn't need to fight, cause everything
was in your expert control.

Keep up the good work. j;~)
-----------------

From: Nevyn (alien4@wasp.net.au)
Subject: Newsgroups: rec. pets. dogs. behavior

Date: 2002-03-01 03:15:50 PST

Hello

I have two mungrel females; the breeds exactly
are Blue Heeler (spots) x Kelpi (dominant genes)
x American Pitbull (behavioural) x Pug (don't laugh!).

They are gentle loving dogs when I'm at home with
them, and they are friendly with unknown people.
They are sisters. One is obviously dominant over the
other, and I don't have a problem with that, however;

Their behaviour is very odd. Some days they are very
good whilst I'm walking them, some days they are not.
They are 3 years old and have only been walking for
about 12 months because my mom didn't walk them
and now I'm home so I walk them for about an hour
and half every afternoon. I take them to the park where
they chase birds and swim in the lake.

This is my problem :

The less-dominant dog viscously barks at every other
dog we walk past; I have tried using a stick and giving
her a tap when she does it, and treating her with treats
when she doesn't, using a choke chain, a muzzle and
a thing that sprays stuff in her mouth when she barks.

She won't stop! Does anyone know how I can stop her? ]

Also, the more-dominant dog seems to know this
is WRONG, when the other dog barks, she doesn't
bark, but she nips at the other dog as if telling her
to cut it out, and then the barking one attacks the
more-dominant one and they fight on the leash...
it is quite disturbing to the people walking past.

And also the more-dominant one is okay around
other dogs...

SOMETIMES... sometimes she completely ignores
them, and yet other times she will attack them, like
yesterday. The less dominant one I must keep on a
leash if a person brings there dog to the park.

How do I stop them attacking other dogs? I have tried
all the methods I have used above for 10 months every
afternoon. Is it just a pac k-behaviour thing?

It can really be quite embarrassing when your dogs
attack some old lady's or little girl's dog.

They are good dogs, when at home or when there
are no other dogs around. Today there were hundreds
of sparrows flying around the park and they were
chasing them and jumping up trying to catch them
for more than 90 minutes (They went straight to bed
when I bought them home!).

Can anyone help me? Email me at my emails address,
alien4@wasp.net.au coz this list is tooo crowded.

Thanks,
Nevyn

=======================

----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Bousie
To: The Puppy Wizard
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:00 AM
Subject: Geday.

Hey J,

I see nothings changed on the NG. Still the same
old crappy advice and misunderstanding of the
only advice worth reading.

The problem with your method J is that I can't
answer the questions on the NG no more, people
are after a quick fix, they don't want to understand
that dog training requires a disiplined method, I'm
now really understanding that they are all result
orientated, they want the dog to sit, to down, to
stay, to come, to stop it's "bad" behaviours, they
want to stamp out each anxiety one at a time not
realising they create a new one as they deal with
the last.

I feel sorry for them, they don't understand, they
don't even realise the errors of thier ways and
they arn't self thinkers, they follow the majority,
after all if everyone says thats the way then it
must be. I've finally realised people don't want
to learn to train dogs they want a trained dog,
they want a little puppet that sits and stays and
downs and does all the nice doggy stuff or so
they think, then when the dog acts like a dog
they come squealing to the NG asking how to
stop the dog being a dog.

I have a nice little visulisation of a dogs mind
that I think demonstrates the way we approach
dog training. Imagine lots of little circles all in a
cluster, each one representing a dog anxiety or
behaviour ( desied or not), each circle represents
something about the dog, all of them create what
a dog is.

The traditional way to train a dog is to stamp out
the "bad" circles, try to eliminate as many as you
can, problem is each one you stamp out another
takes it's place (anxiety circles can't be destroyed
they just change), obviously it's a futile exercise,
but thats the traditional way.

Now imagine a big circle that completely surrounds
all the small circles, this big circle is the whole dog,
that's what we get hold of with all the little circles
inside, we don't see the little circles we see the BIG
circle the macro as you put it and use that to train.

I laugh now when I see posts critisising you, they
are critising something they don't even understand
or even have the capacity to understand.

See ya,
Paul ===============

:>

"Paul B" <someone@microsoft.com> wrote in message news:3edc57c5@clear.net.nz...

100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL, NEARLY
INSTANTLY, BY NEARLY EVERY FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual Student.

It's the GENTLEST, FASTEST, MOST EFFECTIVE,
NON FORCE, NON CONFRONTATIONAL, NON BRIBE,
SCIENTIFIC and PSYCHOLOGICAL technique in the
Whole Wild World, BAR NONE.

===============================

From: Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbousie@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Re: Dog vs cat food (stealing cat food)
Date: 2001-03-03 22:18:03 PST

It's possible to teach a dog not to eat out of a cat bowl
without too much difficulty.

My dogs don't touch the food in the cat bowls although
Roz licks up any bits that have been dropped around
the bowls :-)

I used a can with stones in it to create a distraction
anytime the dogs tried to eat the cats food, followed
with immediate praise. It worked a treat.

The cats bowls are down all the time, usually there is
food left over but the dogs don't eat it, even if we go
out and leave the dogs with access inside through a
dog door.

Paul

--
Obedience and affection are not related, if they
were everyone would have obedient dogs.

See the dogs, cats, us and pics of NZ etc at my homepage.....

http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/paulbousie/index.html

Updated regularly (last time 23 Jan 01) so keep coming back!!! ====================

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Bousie" <paulbousie@clear.net.nz>
To: "'Don Fitz'" <donfitz69@hotmail.com>; <Amanda@DCFWatch.com>
Cc: <jhowe2@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 5:45 AM
Subject: RE: Jerry Howe

==============================
"Paul B" <panders@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message news:3c2ae204@clear.net.nz...

=======================

Subject: Re: Get off the bed... please?

Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbousie@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Good dogs!!! bad dogs.??
Date: 2000/10/21

Something occurred this morning that made me think how
we treat our dogs and what expectations we have of them.

Because it was a Saturday we slept in and the dogs
eventually jumped up on the bed on my wife's side. After
a brief greeting she very abruptly demanded they get down,
"OFF THE BED" she insisted, Sam looked at her perplexed,
so she repeated the "order", so Sam tried to lick her face,
"GET OFF" she said abruptly.

Sam got down but was unsure what he had done wrong. After
a bit they both came over and jumped up on my side, I patted
them etc and eventually asked them to get down, "off the bed,
good dogs" and they hopped off immediately with no prob's.

Eileen asked me why they obey me and not her so easily.
I told her they got down for me because I asked them to,
they know the command "off the bed" or "off anything" so
there is no need to demand it of them, ask them and they
will comply, demand it and they get confused because
they think you are annoyed with them but they don't know
why so they try to "make amends" which is why Sam licked her.

I have found giving dogs "payment" in advance i.e. "Sam
sit goodboy" makes the dogs want to respond, after all, all
dogs want to be "good dogs" and if you tell them they are
good then they feel an obligation to obey your request.

Telling Sam he's a good dog after he sit's apart from been too
late is also a gamble because if he doesn't sit then there's
no positive interaction.

Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say "good dog"
sincerely at the end of the request and I bet you'll find your
dog thinking then responding everytime.

Paul

=======================

From: Paul B (NOSPAMpanders@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Get off the bed... please?
Date: 2001-07-03 03:05:59 PST

A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies to
every aspect of the relationship with your dog.

Paul.

========================

"Charlie Wilkes" <charlie_wilkes@easynews.com wrote
in message
news: pjaootcg8dgrptuu96383933eqk2jjp7b2@4ax.com...

I read up on rotties, pitbulls, etc., and quite a
bit of the literature suggested I needed to assert
my dominance and "make the dog earn everything it
gets."

I tried this once or twice, just by taking a stern
tone of voice, and the results were terrible.
The pup got scared and just wanted to stay away from
me.

That's why I support Jerry Howe and his FREE
Wits' End Dog Training manual -- that and the fact
that Jerry is an all-around great guy.

The core takeaway I got from Jerry's manual is this:
make yourself the center of your puppy's world -
- his personal Lord Jesus. Never give him a reason
to fear you or think you're angry. Love the heck
out of him, and you'll end up with a great dog.

This has truly worked with my puppy. She'll do
anything I want her to, if she understands, because
she trusts me 100 percent, and nothing is more
important in her world than her relationship
with me. http://www.geocities.com/viscouspuppy
Charlie

=========================

"I know that most men, including those at ease with
problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept
even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would
oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they
have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly
taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by
thread, into the fabric of their lives."
-Leo Tolstoy-

Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated
more complaints to my personal email than any other
controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:

CAVEAT
If you have to do things to your dog to train him that you
would rather not have to do, then you shouldn't be doing
them. If you have a dog trainer who tells you to jerk your
dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes,
shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, chin cuff, scruff shake or
punish your dog in any manner, that corrections
are appropriate, that the dog won't think of you as the
punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they
can't train your dog to do what you want, look for a
trainer that knows HOWE.

Thank you,
Jerry Howe,
Director of Research,
BIOSOUND Scientific
Director of Training,
Wits' End Dog Training
1611 24th St
Orlando, FL 32805
Phone: 1-407-425-5092
Phone: 1-888-BIOSOUND (1-888-246-7686)
Phone: 1-888-WITSEND (1-888-948-7363)
http://www.doggydoright.com

Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.
-Francis Bacon-

There are terrible people who, instead of solving a
problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who
come after. Who ever can't hit the nail on the head
should, please, not hit at all.
-Nietzsche-

The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are
learned qualities.

The Wits' End Dog Training Method challenges the learning
centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged,
develop and continue to grow to make him smarter.

The Wits' End Dog Training method capitalizes on
praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and
timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant
corrections, and scolding.
-Jerry Howe-

The Puppy Wizard. <}TPW ; ~ ) >

ANY QUESTIONS, DUMMIES?
,-._,-,
V)"(V
(_o_) Have a great day!
/ V)
(l l l) Your Puppy Wizzzard. <}YPW ; ~ } >
oo-oo

HOWEDY robin,

He sHOWENDS like most of HOWER dog lovers
here abHOWETS who HURT and KILL dogs and
LIE abHOWET it.

Only difference is, he ain't lying and denyin his
own words like you and your lying dog abusing
punk thug coward mentally ill pals do here.

Scary, ain't it.

Well, that's true. You cannot effectively
train a dog using bribes and avoidance.

Nor can you effectively train a dog usin force pain and intimidation.

Havin read every thing on his site he doesn't
detail HOWE he HURTS dog to train them,
only that he trains them using corrections
and mastery and excuses for hurting dogs
when he needs to hurt a dog to be HUMANE,
like it sez in your koehler book.

cc: richlingk9@myway.com

The Puppy Wizard doesn't even gotta TRY
to DISCREDIT you bums, you do it yourself!

Chris Williams writes:

"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual
I do find valuable. Much of it I recognize as what
I've always done without thinking of it as "training".
New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased
the last of Mac's fireworks trauma,"

==============================

From: Chris Williams (k9apple@webtv.net)
Subject: Re: Thank you Jerry Howe
Date: 2002-03-26 08:16:19 PST

Engrossing account, Anthony. Our best to Angel
and your family.

A friend, who socializes the kittens I've taken
from a feral cat colony, is using the DDR.

She reports far fewer panic problems than
she's had before. ============================
From: "Regina Guerrero" <>
To: <jhowe2@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Thank You!

==================

Subj: Fear of Thunder
Date: 6/29/02 6:07:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Jraltman
To: Witsenddog

Dear Jerry,

I hope you'll be able to post this message so more
people who are at their wit's end will be able to help
their dogs.

To review:

Our puppy was uncomfortable during thunder storms.
At the beginning of the problem, she paced restlessly
from room to room. She couldn't settle and sleep.

From there the problem grew. She would run to the far
southeast corner of the house (which makes sense
because most storms here come from the northwest)
and she'd cower in the corner of the couch and shake.

!st attempt to help her:

I'd pick her up, brush and massage her (call me a nut -
I've sung to her when I've done her daily brushing since
she was tiny so of course I sang too) and when she
relaxed, I'd put her in her crate. She then slept and I
thought the problem was solved.

Traumatic event:

We were out in the park playing with one of her doggy
friends when it began to rain. On the way home, there
was the loudest, longest, thunder clap I've ever heard.

From that day on, the problem got worse and worse.
I couldn't calm her with singing and massage. The fear
spread. She wouldn't go out if it was raining. No thunder,
just gently summer rain, and she wouldn't go out.

The solution:

I surfed the net and came across a free manual Wit's
End Dog Training Method and a product called Doggy
Do Right that seemed better than anything else I came
across.

A phone call to Jerry Howe, author of the manual and
Director of Research, Biosound Scientific, convince me
to try both the manual and the product.

Problem solved:

I followed Jerry's suggestions (more phone calls - he is
most generous with his time and advice). The first two
thunder storms my puppy was restless but not running
around in a blind panic.

The third storm, she barked her deep, stranger danger
bark after each clap of thunder. The fourth storm, she
seemed uneasy at first. Soon she was asleep at my
feet and she napped through the rest of the storm.

A miracle. I am endlessly grateful to Jerry
for his manual and his machine.

A word about Doggy Do Right. It is odd to buy a
machine that emits a sound I cannot hear. I took
the chance because Jerry offered a full refund
including shipping.

Though I heard nothing, my puppy clearly did. When
I first turned on the machine, she got the cutest, most
quizzical look on her face. She looked at me as if to
say: "What's that? I never heard that before."

She looks at the machine when it is on. She rests on the floor
beneath it. It is obvious from her behavior that she is aware
of its cycles.

Amazing.

Thank you Jerry. =============
"Anthony Testa" <testa52601@aol.com> wrote in message news:c603fe9c.0203260607.77c283ce@posting.google.c om...

news:<lmWo8AeR1HVP092yn@panix.com>...

=====================

My student Anthony summed it all up:
"Alpha" <sweeney1@bigpond.com> wrote in message news:bsf69.5447$g9.19553@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...

"misty" <Momisty@webtv.net> wrote in message news:16990-3CAB1F8C-1@storefull-2293.public.lawson.webtv.net...

"misty" <Momisty@webtv.net> wrote in message news:6946-3B6337A1-329@storefull-233.iap.bryant.webtv.ne

"misty" <Momisty@webtv.net> wrote in message news:1199-3BD34D6A-229@storefull-235.iap.bryant.webtv.net...

============================== <"Terri"@cyberhighway

Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since
I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough
of the manual and it's counterparts by John Fisher and the
posts of Marylin Rammell to believe and use it. This naive
child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marylin
for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile
crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers.

The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging
idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe
we would not have had to hold the head of a really
magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the
needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped
his last gasp.

To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into
good behavior. Naive is believing that people that hide
behind fake names are more honest than people that use
their real names. Naive is thinking that dilettante dog
breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY,
j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and
lived by their craft for decades.

"Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten
level insults for what they are. Really stupid is believing
that people like Jerry Howe and Marylin Rammell are going to
just go away because you people act like fools. Why do you
act like fools? I really have no idea, and I don't really care.

I think I'm going to get one myself for Father's day and take
it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing. You
would never believe the results, so you'll never know.

I don't see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering
Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh?
As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei.".......right.

Yes it was, and that is sad.

Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to
the box first?)

Hello People,

Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and
hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a
long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry
came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard
way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is
just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and
KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

----------------------------------------------

HOWEDY matty,

You mean, dogs that are DYIN of stress induced seizures?

You're a liar and dog abuser and mental case, matty:
"Rocky" <2dogs@rocky-dog.com> wrote in message news:Xns92FEEC097E4AAaustralianshepherdca@130.133. 1.4...

Can you tell the truth from a lie?:

And then we got, matty! Follow his discussion!
This is what's called, a liar and dog abuser:

"Just Want To Second Jerry's Method For
Dealing With This (Destructive Separation
Anxiety). I've Suggested It To Quite A Few
Clients Now And It's Worked 'EVERY TIME
The Very First Time' - marilyn, Trainer, 33
Years Experience.

You DO remember KILLFILING MARILYN for
her coment above regarding her success with
The Puppy Wizard's Surrogate Toy Separation
Anxiety / Bed Time Calming / Submissive
Urination Technique (STSA/BTC/SUT)?

Perhaps you likeWIZE recall a pediatrician, Dr. Z,
who commented that his bed time calming technique was quite similar?

"His Amazing Progress Almost Makes Me Cry.
Your Method Takes Positive Training To The
Next Level And Should Really Be Used By All
Trainers Who Call Themselves Trainers. Thank
You For Helping Me Save His Life," Kay Pierce,
Professional Trainer, 30 Years Experience.

BWWWWEAAAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

You think matty's playin with a full goddamned deck?

captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK"
Makes A ResoundingSound Distraction: "When
You Chuck The Dog The Sound Will Travel Up
The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping
Sound To The Dog."

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it.
When he barks, use the line for a correction.

- if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar.
Lynn K.

"An indelible impression can sometimes be made
by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration,
then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you
can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish
him again for the same thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment.

It will be better for your dog, as well as the house,
if you really pour it on him," wm koehler.

That's INSANE. Ain't it. So's this, here's
professor SCRUFF SHAKE:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works."

That's HOWE COME your dog has OCD behaviors
and is deathly ill from The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROME.

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

Here's lyingdogDUMMY BEATIN a dog to
HOWEsbreak IT. But FIRST, a little good
KOEHLER trainin:

Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider.

"If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will continue to
mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be
made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then
leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you can come back at
twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.)

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light
spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate
punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the
house, if you really pour it on him."

"Housebreaking Problems:

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training"
Howell Book House, 1996"

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve
himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the
opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment.
Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so
he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place
of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he
associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by
spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is
better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do not
rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you
are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will
not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling.
To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an
error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking
apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then
backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this
group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog
protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the
middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in
a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly
reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable
in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and
it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently
to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not
worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe
enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they're winning
and will continue to mess in the house.

An indelible impression can sometimes be made
by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration,
then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you
can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish
him again for the same thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment.

It will be better for your dog, as well as the house,
if you really pour it on him. "Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:a236iv0ngp58gv9jmi818kbmk928rjcokq@4ax.com...

"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:spb3ivgh7prvq9omhka0bcif0tfknv6oop@4ax.com...

<robinjn@mchsi.com> whittled these words:

HOWEDY People,

captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK"
Makes A ResoundingSound Distraction: "When
You Chuck The Dog The Sound Will Travel Up
The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping
Sound To The Dog."

We got liars, dog abusers and CERTIFIED INCURABLE
LONG TERM MENTAL CASES tellin us that choppin tails
off of puppies withHOWET anesthesia, shocking and jerking
and choking dogs on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
DOESN'T HURT...

You want MOORE of the same?
"Gwen Watson" <gwen@ig.utexas.edu> wrote in message news:4029382C.F4768A9@ig.utexas.edu...

The Puppy Wizard has enjoyed humiliating
and debunking HOWER so called EXXXPERTS
so much HE figgers you'll likeWIZE enjoy the
comedy of death terror and error. The Puppy
Wizard calls this phase of dog trainin ATTRITIION
for past crimes against man, dog, and humanity:

"A CHIN CHUCK" Makes A Resounding
Sound Distraction: "When You Chuck The
Dog The Sound Will Travel Up The Mandible
To The Ears And Give A Popping Sound To
The Dog," captain arthur haggerty.

"Puppy Problems Prevented"
CanineHealthOnline.org. - JERRYIZED

HOWEDY People,

This is the typical bullshit you're gonna find from your
expert veterinary behaviorists and expert dog trainers:

"Question:
I have a 4 month old Great Dane female puppy
who has the habit of biting and catching the lead
in her mouth to shake it in a playful manner when
we walk. I am planning to show her in conformation
and need to break this habit. I rubbed Bitter Apple
on the lead but to no avail. I am using Tabasco pepper
sauce now but it is only partially effective. I try telling
her "leave it" and pulling it downward. Any help you
can give me would be appreciated. "

The world faMOUSE cap'n arthur haggerty replies:

"This is not a difficult problem to solve but"

But our expert can't teach us HOWE to do that
without HURTIN the dog...

" it is very difficult to explain because"

Because he has NO method, only fear force confrontation
intimidation pain and aversives.

" of the many variations and nuances involved in doing so. "

IOW the lying dog abusing Thug needs to couch his words
carefully cause he can only tell us to HURT our dogs, PEOPLE!

" Your use of Bitter Apple and Tabasco sauce is not a bad
move"

That'll endear the dog to working with the handler on lead,
and establish trust love and confidence.

" and I would continue to use it."

First use aversives, and if that don't work, HURT THE DOG to
be fair... cause THAT'S ALL our dog lovers know HOWE to do.

Should take a few minutes to train this dog not to do that...
without hurtin him.

" One correction that can be used is chucking the dog under
the chin when she is biting on the leash. "

Kindly enough advice. When done correctly according to
koehler, our good captain's teacher, the dog will not realize
you are the only one with hands standin there.

" Let me briefly explain the chucking technique."

EXCELLENT! Our dog lovers here don't like to give detailed
advice, so's they don't unintentionally mislead nobody noHOWE.

" Cup your hand so that your thumb and forefinger create a
circle."

Kinda like our professor lying doc scruff shake dermer does
when he relaxes on his couch?

" Your hand comes from the bottom up to the lower portion of
the mandible so the Dane doesn't see it at all. "

Right. Although big enough to take your hand off at the
shoulder, they're big stupid dogs and won't realize it's YOU
who just slapped him in the mouth, and will not even know
you're his tormentor.

" When you chuck the dog the sound will travel up the mandible
to the ears and give a popping sound to the dog. "

AHHH YES! Sound Distraction as taught by the good capn!

" Use a verbal correction at the same time. "

You mean like offering to make a deal?

" Do it as many times as it takes to get the dog to stop. "

I've seen Danes not stop, not for over a year till the dog
was too dangerous to do anything with...except by me.

" You will not be able to deliver that correction every time
so "

So that means the variable reinforcement will negate the
method, antagonize the dog, and exacerbate the anxiety which
is causing the dog to mouth and chew on the lead to defend
himself from being jerked and choked on his pronged spiked
pinch choke collar that is necessary for these monster sized
dogs which I grew up with training serious behavior problems
without hurting them, cause the loser DIES... when you fight
with a dog that's too big to intimidate and hurt enough to
make IT respect your Godlike AUTHORITY.

" supplement it with a collar correction. "

A jerk and choke will teach the dog you are in control... and
the guy in control is the bum who's slappin him around and
jerking and choking him for objecting to being jerked and
choked in the first place, PEOPLE.

" An obedience foundation will certainly help. "

AS STATED.

" Now this is the fastest and longest lasting approach in
solving the problem. "

That so, capn? You're a liar and a dog abuser and got to get
exposed to the akc and run outta business, good buddy. We'll
be seeing a lot of each other in the very near future. This
town ain't big enough for the both of us, cap'n... I'm worldwide.
Get outta Doge. Jerry Howe, The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >

==================

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.

Psychoclown wrote:

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something
you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro
manure."

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says:

"I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit
of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the
article (SHE'D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON'T READ IT!),
there is NO mention in it of twisting ears (INDEED, SHE
PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES).

I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO
BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM).

I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE'S A
PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to
ADMIT THE TRUTH???).

I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where
slapping a dog is anything but destructive."

RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists... and chin cuff doesn't
mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama....

amy lyingfrosty dahl continues:

"Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable
dogs may require you to progress to striking them more
sharply.

REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of
as force-fetching: the ear pinch.

Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.

but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch
the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth,
get out the shotshell.

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the
collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the
dog will give in

With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.'

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick.

Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy.
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb; Say 'fetch' while pressing the dummy against its lips
and pinching its ear."

Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis.

We're gonna teach folks THAT AIN'T NORMAL

That's HOWE COME HOWER DOG LOVERS can't
post here abHOWETS noMOORE.
The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available
in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.

Here's lyingdogDUMMY aka jack morrison aka
joey finnochiario aka tommy soronson of soronson's
retriever kennels, MO, USA BEATING A DOG to
HOWEsbreak IT: "Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:a236iv0ngp58gv9jmi818kbmk928rjcokq@4ax.com...

"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorrison@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in message news:spb3ivgh7prvq9omhka0bcif0tfknv6oop@4ax.com...

<robinjn@mchsi.com> whittled these words:

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training (1962). New York:
Howell Book Book House(p. 52-53)."

Hanging

"First, the trainer makes certain that the collar
and leash are more than adequate for any jerk
or strain that the dog's most frantic actions could
cause. Then he starts to work the dog deliberately
and fairly to the point where the dog makes his grab.

Before the teeth have reached their target,
the dog, weight permitting, is jerked from
the ground.

As in coping with some of the afore-mentioned
problems the dog is suspended in mid-air.

However, to let the biting dog recover
his footing while he still had the strength
to renew the attack would be cruelty.

The only justifiable course is to hold him
suspended until he has neither the strength
nor inclination to renew the fight.

When finally it is obvious that he is
physically incapable of expressing his
resentment and is lowered to the ground,
he will probably stagger loop-legged for a
few steps, vomit once or twice, and roll
over on his side.

The sight of a dog lying, thick-tongued,
on his side, is not pleasant, but do not
let it alarm you

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.

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