HOWEDY John,


For SHORE, so long as there's no wagering.


A dog is a dog.


HOWE COME not? Staffies are pretty versatile.


It'd be no MOORE impressive than trainin a
Retriever to guide the blind, protect a child,
detect bombs or herd sheep.

A dog is a dog.

The HARD part isn't trainin a dog to do what
he's "not bred" to do, but in gettin any dog to
naturally WANT to do EVERY THING WE ASK.

Like lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn's SELECTIVELY
BRED HAND PICKED and TESTED SAR candidate
JIVE. NHOWE here's a dog that had EVERY THING
GOIN for him as a SAR candidate.

He was selectively bred for generations and was
purchased by a knowledgeable EXXXPERT trainer
who jerked and choked and shocked him unmercifully
till IT got HIGH SCORES in the ring, yet he CANNOT
BE FORCED to work a REAL LIVE SEARCH and
RESCUE site cause he LEARNED he CANNOT BE
HURT if his ABUSER doesn't know WHERE the FIND
is.

Since his "RETIREMENT" JIVE has taken to the
pastoral life of sheep hurtin. Of curse, his ABUSER
is learning that no matter HOWE MUCH SHE HURTS
her dog in trainin, JIVE has learned she cannot HURT
him on a field trial.

Of curse, the EZ solution would be for his abuser
to own a sheep farm and HURT Jive EVERY DAY
till he learned to RESPECT her AUTHORITY.


Excessive / destructive chewing is an
anxiHOWESNESS relief mechanism.
That's HOWE COME it's SO EZ to CURE.


Chasing kats is likeWIZE, EZ to CURE.

IN FACT, ANY CONSISTENTLY REPEATABLE
BEHAVIOR is EZ to EXXXTINGUISH or put on
CUE, NEARLY INSTANTLY.

Ask lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn. HERE'S HOWE
she introduces dogs to kats:
"Jerry Howe" <jhowe2@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:<SlDg7.10491$V7.313612@e3500-atl2.usenetserver.com>...


What are you talking about, you lying sack of dung?

You keep talking about some photo on "my" website related to
dogs and cats. I don't have a clue where you dreamt that up.
There IS an article about introducing dogs to cats at
www.sfgsrescue.org - hardly my website - but there are no
photos with humans at that site. And the article is clearly
attributed to the author, who isn't me.

When have I ever said anything about using a prong
collar, or any collar correction at all, to make dogs
friendly to house cats?

Don't bother.

The answer is never.

And I did say "I love Koehler", in reference to the
passage he wrote about the damage foggy-headed
trainers like you do. Specifically.

Lynn K.

===================

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs:

"This Article Is Something We've Put Together
For SF GSD Rescue

From: Lynn Kosmakos (lkosmakos@home.com)
Subject: Re: I have a dog he has cats
Date: 1999/11/20 ginger57@my-deja.com wrote:


Okay - this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K.

"Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don't
forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works
better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in
this situation.

Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but
should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how
to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can
take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that
time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or
whatever other reward system was being used."

8) Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog.
Don't forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong
works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the
dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to
you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat
walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is
why you have the dog muzzled). If the dog makes an
aggressive move towards the cat, it must be corrected strongly
with both your voice and the collar. This is important - the
correction must be physically very strong - not a nag. (PS:
not many dogs need to be corrected at all)."


Well, perhaps NHOWE you see HOWE COME
dogs are SO HARD to train, if we don't understand
behavior or haven't risen above HOWER HUMAN
NATURE, the "do as I tell you or I'll HURT or KILL
you" imperative.

Here's a couple articles on Pit Bulls The Amazing
Puppy Wizard was just abHOWET to publish after being apupriately JERRYIZED:

A dog is a dog. It's HOWER "DOG LOVERS"
who are responsible for the BAD REPUTATIONS
and the BREED HYSTERIA in the media.

That's INSANE.

A dog is a dog.

Any "trainer" who can't train any dog NEARLY
INSTANTLY is a FRAUD and ought to get the
heel HOWETA this business.


Yeah, like disciple cris, tara o. aka tee, culprit
aka kelly, suja, race track silly and a few other
ignorant lyin dog abusing punk thug coward
busy bodies are known to assist in RESCUE.

A dog is a dog. It's HOWER Pit Bull LOVERS who
create breed hysteria and malign this versatile little
dog info@pitbullproject.org.

They are not knowledgeable pit bull lovers, they're
cowards who hurt and murder dogs to compensate
for their fragile defective egos, inferiority complexes
and weak fearful minds. They're generally psychopaths.

Like culprit aka kelly's safe loving HOWES where
her dogs are jerked and choked on pronged spiked
pinch choke collars and shocking and locking them
in boxes and spraying aversives in their faces.


Dogs only attack when they're AFRAID.

It would have been on accHOWENT of FEAR.


INSTEAD OF TRAINING HIM TO BE TRUSTING and CONFIDENT.

"ESPECIALLY a CHILD???"

So the solution is MURDER the dog on accHOWENT
of HOWER Pit Bull lovers can't train a dog not to be
AFRAID, "ESPECIALLY OF CHILDREN."


Ooops!

Looks like HOWER friends, the COWARDS
at info@pitbullproject.org have dropped the FEAR CARD prematurely.


Ooops! So much for "we want to be sure we
place our dogs in safe, loving homes for life."

EZ come, EZ go, hunh?

LUCKY THING "Pit Bulls demand owners that not
only understand the challenges of the breed but
owners committed to negotiating these challenges
on a daily basis."

Looks like info@pitbullproject.org are MOORE
AFRAID of pit bulls than J.Q. Pubic and the media.

Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Unless it's a trained working K-9.


But they'll gladly pay your claims for
loss of life and pupperty if you don't
have a protection trained dog.

Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


MAYBE... thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Vs EZ GENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY and FOR FREE...


After YEARS of dedication and effort.


Then you probably shouldn't own a dog.

Tell them info@pitbullproject.org sent you.


Most shelters MURDER Pit Bulls Thanks to the
DOG LOVERS at info@pitbullproject.org.


Cause THAT would be BAD for the Pit Bull's
REPUTATION as a safe friendly breed...

Well, that's not a common occurence for
legitimate guard dog owners. That's criminal
activity, no matter HOWE you cut it.


Cause training them not to be AFRAID is time
consuming, expensive, and UNPREDICTABLE,
according to the Pit Bull lovers at info@pitbullproject.org.


Dog aggression is caused by FEAR and MISHANDLING.
The SAME kind of FEAR and MISHANLDING as taught
by the Pit Bull fanicers at info@pitbullproject.org.


"Trait?" Perhaps the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org
think a TRAIT is a behavior that cannot be trained.

Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.

Right... IOW, the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org
EXXXPECT their dogs to HURT and MURDER other
dogs, and they LIKE THAT TRAIT.

Perhaps THAT'S on accHOWENT of the dog lovers
at info@pitbullproject.org MURDER their dogs on
their first grHOWEL at a human. That's the nature
of a dog abusing coward.

INDEED. That's HOWE COME info@pitbullproject.org
are lying dog abusing punk thug cowards.


The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ a dog is a dog.

Just like any medium sized dog.

NO. Dog lovers who jerk and choke and shock
and murder dogs for behavior problems rely
on excessive excercise to control their dog's
HYPERACTIVE BEHAVIORS cause they don't
know HOWE to train them.

That's just plain false. A dog is a dog.


Same sex dogs MAY compete unless they're
pupperly handled and trained.


Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


That's on accHOWENT of MISHANDLING and ABUSE.


Cause you can't TRUST them, according to the
DOG LOVERS at info@pitbullproject.org.

IOW, you'd NEED to lock them in a crate when
their abusers are not standing there ready to
HURT and INTIMIDATE them.


Thanks to the DISINFORMATION from info@pitbullproject.org.


BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

But they HURT OTHER DOGS... according to
the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org.

Either that, or the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org
will eagerly MURDER them.


Cause we wouldn't want to ruin their reputation...

A dog is a dog.

IOW, be prepared for IT to HURT or MURDER
other dogs, and be prepared to MURDER IT
if IT SCARES YOU.

BWEEEHAHAHAHAHHAHAAA!!!

BWEEEEEEAAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,


That so? HOWE is it The Amazing Puppy Wizard
FELL HOWETA your KILFILTER?


HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,
"Amy Dahl" <amy@oakhillkennel.com> wrote in message news:407A07CE.739FB98B@oakhillkennel.com...


She DOES that cause she's been ABUSED.


culprit aka kelly has been jerking and choking
her dogs on a pronged spiked pinch choke collar
since day WON and has been shocking them for
six weeks NHOWE. THAT'S HOWE COME her
dogs ATTACKED EACH OTHER and wHOWEND
up in the emergency HOWEspital.


culprit aka kelly has a long history of
incurable deblilitating mental illness, just like yourself.


It's abHOWET a fragile defective ego,
lack of self esteem, an inability to be
socially acceptable and needing to
force intimidate and hurt a BAD DOG.

ALL aggression is FEAR.


Perhaps that's HOWE COME culprit aka kelly's
dogs haven't TURNED ON HER YET.


culprit aka kelly is a DOG ABUSER and a MENTAL CASE. Like yourself.

BWEEEEAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

You beat dogs with sticks and jerk and choke
them on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
and pinch and twist their ears and lie abHOWET it.


"He that will not apply new remedies, must expect
new evils." Francis Bacon (1561-1626); English
philosopher, essayist, statesman.

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change, Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Would
Not Obtain Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
For All Handler's And All Dogs, As Taught In Your FREE
Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog
Training Method Manual." The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

The dog trainin industry is abHOWET to take a badly
deserved and well earned HIT. It's gonna be ALOT
MOORE than a CHIN CHUCK and it's gonna HURT
A LOT MOORE than a static like stimulation from their
MEDICAL GRADE SHOCK COLLARS.


As a liar or a dog abuser or a mental case, or
all of the above, lying frosty dahl?


You take six months to train a dog what he should
be able to learn in six weeks, cause you don't know
HOWE to TRAIN a dog, that's HOWE COME you
jerk and choke and shock and beat them.

BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

You HURT dogs and LIE abHOWET it cause
you're a MENTAL CASE a dog abuser and a FRAUD.


IMAGINE??? In all these years you've only
had two pairs of littermates to "train?"

Let's talk abHOWET you discovering canibalism in Labradors?


ABUSED is what she DESCRIBED.


That so? Could it have sumpthin to do with HURTIN her?


Like THIS?:

"Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to
progress to striking them more sharply

Try pinching the ear between the metal
casing and the collar, even the buckle on
the collar.

Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in but
will squeal, thrash around, and direct their
efforts to escaping the ear pinch

You can press the dog's ear with a
shotshell instead of your thumb even
get a studded collar and pinch the ear
against that Make the dog's need to stop
the pinching so urgent that resisting your
will fades in importance.

CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever
Ready Right Hand, As it catches on, try
using the stick and no ear pinch.

When the dog is digging out to beat the
stick and seems totally reliable without
any ear pinch, you are finished

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome

If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly
under the chin, say "No! Hold!"

(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps
because the ear is getting tender, or the
dog has decided it isn't worth it)," lying frosty dahl.


"This is continued resistance to your increasing
authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome"


"Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And
Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump
With A Riding Crop," lying frosty dahl,
discoverer of CANNIBALISM in Labradors.

NO PROBLEMO!!!:

"John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and
gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the
rump with a training stick while holding him partially
off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back
to the line and cast him back to the dummies."

Perhaps the mom dog ate her babies cause
she didn't want her babies HURT all their lives
like HOWE HOWER dog lovers PREFER to HURT THEIR DOGS?

The Puppy Wizard sez a mom dog eatin her babies
to SAVE THEM from a fate like that, is COMMENDABLE.

Well let's talk abHOWET clicker trainin?

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A
Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single
Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A
Dog Is Anything But Destructive,"

LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't
mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like
a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if
CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog.

"I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get
a good working dog by making them unhapper,
fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl.

But you ARE an EXXXPERT DOG ABUSER LIAR and MENTAL PATIENT.


IOW, you let them fight it HOWET.


You're a piece of art.


No, they're not. They're both RESCUE dogs.

INDEED. That's on accHOWENT of they've
been ABUSED in the same ways.


They'll fight if culprit aka kelly isn't standing there to intimidate them.


Same age puppies bond together IN DEFENSE
from their ABUSER.

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.

Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe,
The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >


Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available
in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.


BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAAA!!!!

HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,


That so? HOWE is it The Amazing Puppy Wizard
FELL HOWETA your KILFILTER?


HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,
"Amy Dahl" <amy@oakhillkennel.com> wrote in message news:407A07CE.739FB98B@oakhillkennel.com...


She DOES that cause she's been ABUSED.


culprit aka kelly has been jerking and choking
her dogs on a pronged spiked pinch choke collar
since day WON and has been shocking them for
six weeks NHOWE. THAT'S HOWE COME her
dogs ATTACKED EACH OTHER and wHOWEND
up in the emergency HOWEspital.


culprit aka kelly has a long history of
incurable deblilitating mental illness, just like yourself.


It's abHOWET a fragile defective ego,
lack of self esteem, an inability to be
socially acceptable and needing to
force intimidate and hurt a BAD DOG.

ALL aggression is FEAR.


Perhaps that's HOWE COME culprit aka kelly's
dogs haven't TURNED ON HER YET.


culprit aka kelly is a DOG ABUSER and a MENTAL CASE. Like yourself.

BWEEEEAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

You beat dogs with sticks and jerk and choke
them on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
and pinch and twist their ears and lie abHOWET it.


"He that will not apply new remedies, must expect
new evils." Francis Bacon (1561-1626); English
philosopher, essayist, statesman.

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change, Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Would
Not Obtain Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
For All Handler's And All Dogs, As Taught In Your FREE
Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog
Training Method Manual." The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

The dog trainin industry is abHOWET to take a badly
deserved and well earned HIT. It's gonna be ALOT
MOORE than a CHIN CHUCK and it's gonna HURT
A LOT MOORE than a static like stimulation from their
MEDICAL GRADE SHOCK COLLARS.


As a liar or a dog abuser or a mental case, or
all of the above, lying frosty dahl?


You take six months to train a dog what he should
be able to learn in six weeks, cause you don't know
HOWE to TRAIN a dog, that's HOWE COME you
jerk and choke and shock and beat them.

BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

You HURT dogs and LIE abHOWET it cause
you're a MENTAL CASE a dog abuser and a FRAUD.


IMAGINE??? In all these years you've only
had two pairs of littermates to "train?"

Let's talk abHOWET you discovering canibalism in Labradors?


ABUSED is what she DESCRIBED.


That so? Could it have sumpthin to do with HURTIN her?


Like THIS?:

"Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to
progress to striking them more sharply

Try pinching the ear between the metal
casing and the collar, even the buckle on
the collar.

Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in but
will squeal, thrash around, and direct their
efforts to escaping the ear pinch

You can press the dog's ear with a
shotshell instead of your thumb even
get a studded collar and pinch the ear
against that Make the dog's need to stop
the pinching so urgent that resisting your
will fades in importance.

CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever
Ready Right Hand, As it catches on, try
using the stick and no ear pinch.

When the dog is digging out to beat the
stick and seems totally reliable without
any ear pinch, you are finished

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome

If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly
under the chin, say "No! Hold!"

(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps
because the ear is getting tender, or the
dog has decided it isn't worth it)," lying frosty dahl.


"This is continued resistance to your increasing
authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome"


"Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And
Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump
With A Riding Crop," lying frosty dahl,
discoverer of CANNIBALISM in Labradors.

NO PROBLEMO!!!:

"John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and
gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the
rump with a training stick while holding him partially
off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back
to the line and cast him back to the dummies."

Perhaps the mom dog ate her babies cause
she didn't want her babies HURT all their lives
like HOWE HOWER dog lovers PREFER to HURT THEIR DOGS?

The Puppy Wizard sez a mom dog eatin her babies
to SAVE THEM from a fate like that, is COMMENDABLE.

Well let's talk abHOWET clicker trainin?

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A
Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single
Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A
Dog Is Anything But Destructive,"

LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't
mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like
a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if
CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog.

"I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get
a good working dog by making them unhapper,
fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl.

But you ARE an EXXXPERT DOG ABUSER LIAR and MENTAL PATIENT.


IOW, you let them fight it HOWET.


You're a piece of art.


No, they're not. They're both RESCUE dogs.

INDEED. That's on accHOWENT of they've
been ABUSED in the same ways.


They'll fight if culprit aka kelly isn't standing there to intimidate them.


Same age puppies bond together IN DEFENSE
from their ABUSER.

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.

Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe,
The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >


Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available
in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.


BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAAA!!!!

HOWEDY John,


For SHORE, so long as there's no wagering.


A dog is a dog.


HOWE COME not? Staffies are pretty versatile.


It'd be no MOORE impressive than trainin a
Retriever to guide the blind, protect a child,
detect bombs or herd sheep.

A dog is a dog.

The HARD part isn't trainin a dog to do what
he's "not bred" to do, but in gettin any dog to
naturally WANT to do EVERY THING WE ASK.

Like lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn's SELECTIVELY
BRED HAND PICKED and TESTED SAR candidate
JIVE. NHOWE here's a dog that had EVERY THING
GOIN for him as a SAR candidate.

He was selectively bred for generations and was
purchased by a knowledgeable EXXXPERT trainer
who jerked and choked and shocked him unmercifully
till IT got HIGH SCORES in the ring, yet he CANNOT
BE FORCED to work a REAL LIVE SEARCH and
RESCUE site cause he LEARNED he CANNOT BE
HURT if his ABUSER doesn't know WHERE the FIND
is.

Since his "RETIREMENT" JIVE has taken to the
pastoral life of sheep hurtin. Of curse, his ABUSER
is learning that no matter HOWE MUCH SHE HURTS
her dog in trainin, JIVE has learned she cannot HURT
him on a field trial.

Of curse, the EZ solution would be for his abuser
to own a sheep farm and HURT Jive EVERY DAY
till he learned to RESPECT her AUTHORITY.


Excessive / destructive chewing is an
anxiHOWESNESS relief mechanism.
That's HOWE COME it's SO EZ to CURE.


Chasing kats is likeWIZE, EZ to CURE.

IN FACT, ANY CONSISTENTLY REPEATABLE
BEHAVIOR is EZ to EXXXTINGUISH or put on
CUE, NEARLY INSTANTLY.

Ask lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn. HERE'S HOWE
she introduces dogs to kats:
"Jerry Howe" <jhowe2@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:<SlDg7.10491$V7.313612@e3500-atl2.usenetserver.com>...


What are you talking about, you lying sack of dung?

You keep talking about some photo on "my" website related to
dogs and cats. I don't have a clue where you dreamt that up.
There IS an article about introducing dogs to cats at
www.sfgsrescue.org - hardly my website - but there are no
photos with humans at that site. And the article is clearly
attributed to the author, who isn't me.

When have I ever said anything about using a prong
collar, or any collar correction at all, to make dogs
friendly to house cats?

Don't bother.

The answer is never.

And I did say "I love Koehler", in reference to the
passage he wrote about the damage foggy-headed
trainers like you do. Specifically.

Lynn K.

===================

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs:

"This Article Is Something We've Put Together
For SF GSD Rescue

From: Lynn Kosmakos (lkosmakos@home.com)
Subject: Re: I have a dog he has cats
Date: 1999/11/20 ginger57@my-deja.com wrote:


Okay - this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K.

"Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don't
forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works
better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in
this situation.

Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but
should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how
to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can
take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that
time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or
whatever other reward system was being used."

8) Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog.
Don't forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong
works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the
dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to
you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat
walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is
why you have the dog muzzled). If the dog makes an
aggressive move towards the cat, it must be corrected strongly
with both your voice and the collar. This is important - the
correction must be physically very strong - not a nag. (PS:
not many dogs need to be corrected at all)."


Well, perhaps NHOWE you see HOWE COME
dogs are SO HARD to train, if we don't understand
behavior or haven't risen above HOWER HUMAN
NATURE, the "do as I tell you or I'll HURT or KILL
you" imperative.

Here's a couple articles on Pit Bulls The Amazing
Puppy Wizard was just abHOWET to publish after being apupriately JERRYIZED:

A dog is a dog. It's HOWER "DOG LOVERS"
who are responsible for the BAD REPUTATIONS
and the BREED HYSTERIA in the media.

That's INSANE.

A dog is a dog.

Any "trainer" who can't train any dog NEARLY
INSTANTLY is a FRAUD and ought to get the
heel HOWETA this business.


Yeah, like disciple cris, tara o. aka tee, culprit
aka kelly, suja, race track silly and a few other
ignorant lyin dog abusing punk thug coward
busy bodies are known to assist in RESCUE.

A dog is a dog. It's HOWER Pit Bull LOVERS who
create breed hysteria and malign this versatile little
dog info@pitbullproject.org.

They are not knowledgeable pit bull lovers, they're
cowards who hurt and murder dogs to compensate
for their fragile defective egos, inferiority complexes
and weak fearful minds. They're generally psychopaths.

Like culprit aka kelly's safe loving HOWES where
her dogs are jerked and choked on pronged spiked
pinch choke collars and shocking and locking them
in boxes and spraying aversives in their faces.


Dogs only attack when they're AFRAID.

It would have been on accHOWENT of FEAR.


INSTEAD OF TRAINING HIM TO BE TRUSTING and CONFIDENT.

"ESPECIALLY a CHILD???"

So the solution is MURDER the dog on accHOWENT
of HOWER Pit Bull lovers can't train a dog not to be
AFRAID, "ESPECIALLY OF CHILDREN."


Ooops!

Looks like HOWER friends, the COWARDS
at info@pitbullproject.org have dropped the FEAR CARD prematurely.


Ooops! So much for "we want to be sure we
place our dogs in safe, loving homes for life."

EZ come, EZ go, hunh?

LUCKY THING "Pit Bulls demand owners that not
only understand the challenges of the breed but
owners committed to negotiating these challenges
on a daily basis."

Looks like info@pitbullproject.org are MOORE
AFRAID of pit bulls than J.Q. Pubic and the media.

Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Unless it's a trained working K-9.


But they'll gladly pay your claims for
loss of life and pupperty if you don't
have a protection trained dog.

Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


MAYBE... thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


Vs EZ GENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY and FOR FREE...


After YEARS of dedication and effort.


Then you probably shouldn't own a dog.

Tell them info@pitbullproject.org sent you.


Most shelters MURDER Pit Bulls Thanks to the
DOG LOVERS at info@pitbullproject.org.


Cause THAT would be BAD for the Pit Bull's
REPUTATION as a safe friendly breed...

Well, that's not a common occurence for
legitimate guard dog owners. That's criminal
activity, no matter HOWE you cut it.


Cause training them not to be AFRAID is time
consuming, expensive, and UNPREDICTABLE,
according to the Pit Bull lovers at info@pitbullproject.org.


Dog aggression is caused by FEAR and MISHANDLING.
The SAME kind of FEAR and MISHANLDING as taught
by the Pit Bull fanicers at info@pitbullproject.org.


"Trait?" Perhaps the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org
think a TRAIT is a behavior that cannot be trained.

Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.

Right... IOW, the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org
EXXXPECT their dogs to HURT and MURDER other
dogs, and they LIKE THAT TRAIT.

Perhaps THAT'S on accHOWENT of the dog lovers
at info@pitbullproject.org MURDER their dogs on
their first grHOWEL at a human. That's the nature
of a dog abusing coward.

INDEED. That's HOWE COME info@pitbullproject.org
are lying dog abusing punk thug cowards.


The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ a dog is a dog.

Just like any medium sized dog.

NO. Dog lovers who jerk and choke and shock
and murder dogs for behavior problems rely
on excessive excercise to control their dog's
HYPERACTIVE BEHAVIORS cause they don't
know HOWE to train them.

That's just plain false. A dog is a dog.


Same sex dogs MAY compete unless they're
pupperly handled and trained.


Thanks to info@pitbullproject.org.


That's on accHOWENT of MISHANDLING and ABUSE.


Cause you can't TRUST them, according to the
DOG LOVERS at info@pitbullproject.org.

IOW, you'd NEED to lock them in a crate when
their abusers are not standing there ready to
HURT and INTIMIDATE them.


Thanks to the DISINFORMATION from info@pitbullproject.org.


BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

But they HURT OTHER DOGS... according to
the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org.

Either that, or the dog lovers at info@pitbullproject.org
will eagerly MURDER them.


Cause we wouldn't want to ruin their reputation...

A dog is a dog.

IOW, be prepared for IT to HURT or MURDER
other dogs, and be prepared to MURDER IT
if IT SCARES YOU.

BWEEEHAHAHAHAHHAHAAA!!!

BWEEEEEEAAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,


That so? HOWE is it The Amazing Puppy Wizard
FELL HOWETA your KILFILTER?


HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,
"Amy Dahl" <amy@oakhillkennel.com> wrote in message news:407A07CE.739FB98B@oakhillkennel.com...


She DOES that cause she's been ABUSED.


culprit aka kelly has been jerking and choking
her dogs on a pronged spiked pinch choke collar
since day WON and has been shocking them for
six weeks NHOWE. THAT'S HOWE COME her
dogs ATTACKED EACH OTHER and wHOWEND
up in the emergency HOWEspital.


culprit aka kelly has a long history of
incurable deblilitating mental illness, just like yourself.


It's abHOWET a fragile defective ego,
lack of self esteem, an inability to be
socially acceptable and needing to
force intimidate and hurt a BAD DOG.

ALL aggression is FEAR.


Perhaps that's HOWE COME culprit aka kelly's
dogs haven't TURNED ON HER YET.


culprit aka kelly is a DOG ABUSER and a MENTAL CASE. Like yourself.

BWEEEEAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

You beat dogs with sticks and jerk and choke
them on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
and pinch and twist their ears and lie abHOWET it.


"He that will not apply new remedies, must expect
new evils." Francis Bacon (1561-1626); English
philosopher, essayist, statesman.

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change, Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Would
Not Obtain Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
For All Handler's And All Dogs, As Taught In Your FREE
Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog
Training Method Manual." The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

The dog trainin industry is abHOWET to take a badly
deserved and well earned HIT. It's gonna be ALOT
MOORE than a CHIN CHUCK and it's gonna HURT
A LOT MOORE than a static like stimulation from their
MEDICAL GRADE SHOCK COLLARS.


As a liar or a dog abuser or a mental case, or
all of the above, lying frosty dahl?


You take six months to train a dog what he should
be able to learn in six weeks, cause you don't know
HOWE to TRAIN a dog, that's HOWE COME you
jerk and choke and shock and beat them.

BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

You HURT dogs and LIE abHOWET it cause
you're a MENTAL CASE a dog abuser and a FRAUD.


IMAGINE??? In all these years you've only
had two pairs of littermates to "train?"

Let's talk abHOWET you discovering canibalism in Labradors?


ABUSED is what she DESCRIBED.


That so? Could it have sumpthin to do with HURTIN her?


Like THIS?:

"Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to
progress to striking them more sharply

Try pinching the ear between the metal
casing and the collar, even the buckle on
the collar.

Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in but
will squeal, thrash around, and direct their
efforts to escaping the ear pinch

You can press the dog's ear with a
shotshell instead of your thumb even
get a studded collar and pinch the ear
against that Make the dog's need to stop
the pinching so urgent that resisting your
will fades in importance.

CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever
Ready Right Hand, As it catches on, try
using the stick and no ear pinch.

When the dog is digging out to beat the
stick and seems totally reliable without
any ear pinch, you are finished

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome

If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly
under the chin, say "No! Hold!"

(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps
because the ear is getting tender, or the
dog has decided it isn't worth it)," lying frosty dahl.


"This is continued resistance to your increasing
authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome"


"Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And
Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump
With A Riding Crop," lying frosty dahl,
discoverer of CANNIBALISM in Labradors.

NO PROBLEMO!!!:

"John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and
gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the
rump with a training stick while holding him partially
off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back
to the line and cast him back to the dummies."

Perhaps the mom dog ate her babies cause
she didn't want her babies HURT all their lives
like HOWE HOWER dog lovers PREFER to HURT THEIR DOGS?

The Puppy Wizard sez a mom dog eatin her babies
to SAVE THEM from a fate like that, is COMMENDABLE.

Well let's talk abHOWET clicker trainin?

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A
Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single
Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A
Dog Is Anything But Destructive,"

LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't
mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like
a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if
CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog.

"I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get
a good working dog by making them unhapper,
fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl.

But you ARE an EXXXPERT DOG ABUSER LIAR and MENTAL PATIENT.


IOW, you let them fight it HOWET.


You're a piece of art.


No, they're not. They're both RESCUE dogs.

INDEED. That's on accHOWENT of they've
been ABUSED in the same ways.


They'll fight if culprit aka kelly isn't standing there to intimidate them.


Same age puppies bond together IN DEFENSE
from their ABUSER.

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.

Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe,
The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >


Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available
in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.


BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAAA!!!!

HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,


That so? HOWE is it The Amazing Puppy Wizard
FELL HOWETA your KILFILTER?


HOWEDY lying frosty dahl,
"Amy Dahl" <amy@oakhillkennel.com> wrote in message news:407A07CE.739FB98B@oakhillkennel.com...


She DOES that cause she's been ABUSED.


culprit aka kelly has been jerking and choking
her dogs on a pronged spiked pinch choke collar
since day WON and has been shocking them for
six weeks NHOWE. THAT'S HOWE COME her
dogs ATTACKED EACH OTHER and wHOWEND
up in the emergency HOWEspital.


culprit aka kelly has a long history of
incurable deblilitating mental illness, just like yourself.


It's abHOWET a fragile defective ego,
lack of self esteem, an inability to be
socially acceptable and needing to
force intimidate and hurt a BAD DOG.

ALL aggression is FEAR.


Perhaps that's HOWE COME culprit aka kelly's
dogs haven't TURNED ON HER YET.


culprit aka kelly is a DOG ABUSER and a MENTAL CASE. Like yourself.

BWEEEEAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

You beat dogs with sticks and jerk and choke
them on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
and pinch and twist their ears and lie abHOWET it.


"He that will not apply new remedies, must expect
new evils." Francis Bacon (1561-1626); English
philosopher, essayist, statesman.

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change, Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Would
Not Obtain Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
For All Handler's And All Dogs, As Taught In Your FREE
Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog
Training Method Manual." The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

The dog trainin industry is abHOWET to take a badly
deserved and well earned HIT. It's gonna be ALOT
MOORE than a CHIN CHUCK and it's gonna HURT
A LOT MOORE than a static like stimulation from their
MEDICAL GRADE SHOCK COLLARS.


As a liar or a dog abuser or a mental case, or
all of the above, lying frosty dahl?


You take six months to train a dog what he should
be able to learn in six weeks, cause you don't know
HOWE to TRAIN a dog, that's HOWE COME you
jerk and choke and shock and beat them.

BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

You HURT dogs and LIE abHOWET it cause
you're a MENTAL CASE a dog abuser and a FRAUD.


IMAGINE??? In all these years you've only
had two pairs of littermates to "train?"

Let's talk abHOWET you discovering canibalism in Labradors?


ABUSED is what she DESCRIBED.


That so? Could it have sumpthin to do with HURTIN her?


Like THIS?:

"Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to
progress to striking them more sharply

Try pinching the ear between the metal
casing and the collar, even the buckle on
the collar.

Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in but
will squeal, thrash around, and direct their
efforts to escaping the ear pinch

You can press the dog's ear with a
shotshell instead of your thumb even
get a studded collar and pinch the ear
against that Make the dog's need to stop
the pinching so urgent that resisting your
will fades in importance.

CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever
Ready Right Hand, As it catches on, try
using the stick and no ear pinch.

When the dog is digging out to beat the
stick and seems totally reliable without
any ear pinch, you are finished

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome

If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly
under the chin, say "No! Hold!"

(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps
because the ear is getting tender, or the
dog has decided it isn't worth it)," lying frosty dahl.


"This is continued resistance to your increasing
authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome"


"Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And
Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump
With A Riding Crop," lying frosty dahl,
discoverer of CANNIBALISM in Labradors.

NO PROBLEMO!!!:

"John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and
gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the
rump with a training stick while holding him partially
off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back
to the line and cast him back to the dummies."

Perhaps the mom dog ate her babies cause
she didn't want her babies HURT all their lives
like HOWE HOWER dog lovers PREFER to HURT THEIR DOGS?

The Puppy Wizard sez a mom dog eatin her babies
to SAVE THEM from a fate like that, is COMMENDABLE.

Well let's talk abHOWET clicker trainin?

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A
Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single
Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A
Dog Is Anything But Destructive,"

LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't
mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like
a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if
CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog.

"I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get
a good working dog by making them unhapper,
fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl.

But you ARE an EXXXPERT DOG ABUSER LIAR and MENTAL PATIENT.


IOW, you let them fight it HOWET.


You're a piece of art.


No, they're not. They're both RESCUE dogs.

INDEED. That's on accHOWENT of they've
been ABUSED in the same ways.


They'll fight if culprit aka kelly isn't standing there to intimidate them.


Same age puppies bond together IN DEFENSE
from their ABUSER.

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."

END lyingfrosty dahl

If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to
lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check
or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40"
long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life
of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature
intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY
HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of
JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS
WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE
JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to
PUPPERLY handle and train your dog using
non force, non confrontational, scientific and
psychological methods, in your FREE copy
of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.

Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe,
The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >


Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed
any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force
their method on everyone, or calling others names because
they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his
book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler
on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as
significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly,
Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional
manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's
actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in
any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the
trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly,
so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very
few corrections are needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence
of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's
favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction
weighs against it." lying frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available
in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct:
the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and
windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary
people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a
good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and
plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use
his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow
the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the
most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have
to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to establish it
as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around
when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a
hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while you
catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release
him from the stay and leave the area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth
that a great percentage of the barkers who are given
away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box
with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that
it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the
spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able
to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association so
that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be
quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.


BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAAA!!!!